81 V50 II

Hi,Can any one tell me if a relay problem is likely to cause the engine to stop on tickover occasionally and not start until it has cooled down then its ok - engine will not turnover starter is dead - have checked battery and starter terminals which appear ok (I could take off and emery paper to be sure) I have bought a secondhand relay which is black rather than clear plastic - it has the same number of flat pins but they are in a different pattern and I don.t know which pins go with the connectors, any answers appreciatedMark

Hi Mark,
Is the bike cutting out at tickover or not starting from warm/hot?
If it’s the former will it run on a slightly open throttle?
With the latter it could be the relay or the starter/solenoid.
The relays should have numbers on the base adjacent to the pins. These, in turn, correspond to the wiring diagram available elsewhere on the site.
All the best

Its the latter its an intermitant problem and has happened on 2 out of the last 4 rides out with 3 or 4 stops when all is ok then it wont start when left for a bit it starts - my old relay has no readable numbers but the replacement has some numbers readable so should be able to get wires correct with trial and error - do you know if I can do any damage to relay if I wire up incorrectly and try to start engine?

My 850T3 which uses the same type relays has85 Black/white wire30 double brown 86 single brown87 redthese relays are sold at most if not all small car spares shops, they are a bit smaller than the orginal relay but I have been useing them for 30 + years on Guzzi’s from a V50 up to a V1,000G5. as far as any damage if wired up wrong well I have now and again wired them up wrong with no problems but you might blow a fuse I suppose, the red wire is to the starter motor, the b/white is from the starter button and the browns are to things like side stand cut out switch which your bike will not have.

northwest2014-06-01 00:04:09

Ok thanks 'll give it a goMark

Try the wiring mod which is also on here somewhere. Solved similar issue for me. Resistance of wiring controlling relay is a bit high as supplied from new on these small blocks.

Cutting out when hot sounds more like a coil failing, although you wouldn’t expect both to fail at the same time. This one has the electronic ignition. I assume there are 2 separate coils, black boxes and pick up sensors.Dodgy starter relay wouldn’t stop it running once it is going, it would only give problems getting it started. A failing relay will usually just give a click and then it is more likely to be the wiring to it rather than the relay itself. Definitely agree to doing the wiring mod. Look in the frequently asked questions for testing starter motors and click no clunk threads.

Did you ever sort this issue. I have had similar problems which ended with both my lemans and V50 with having to replace the ignition switch. The old ones with the circular button key just get crudded up and worn and then fail usually intermittently at first. I have tried reviving the contacts but its easier just to get a new barrel and key.

I tried the wiring mod which appeared to work however when the bike was warm and on tickover and after a 10 mile run it kept cutting out which seemed like a fuel problem ,which could just be a coincidence and mean I may have resolved the former problem?- I have not resolved yet I intend to put wiring back to see if it resolves the second problem if not i’ll check the carbs. I,ve heard that the ignition switch can cause problems so I might tackle that - is it an easy fix?

This is the link to the wiring mod if anybody needs it title is Click no crank posted by Brian UK http://www.motoguzziclub.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=18404