On the old big blocks I had, just remove the front plastic generator cover, 4 screws, then an Allen key in the rotor fixing bolt. Easy-peasy. On the new V7’s, the front cover is actually the cover to the crankcase space (the generator is internal to the crankcase and runs in engine oil) so removing it is a massive PITA; just getting access to the bolts is a nightmare apparently, and add lots of potential for damage and/or messing things up. I don’t know but maybe the oil has to be drained if the level higher than the bottom of the cover, and a new gasket needed for refitting. Compared to which, rotating the rear wheel in gear suddenly becomes the simplest and quickest way.
Maybe a stupid question, but I intend doing a valve check on my v7 850 Special 2024 model. The clearances according to AI. Are 0.10mm inlet and 0.15 mm exhaust. Anyone disagree with that? Thanks in advance.
In this case the ‘AI’ you used was right but as that appears to be a matter of luck or coincidence best to avoid using AI for anything that requires truth or accuracy
Thanks for confirming the AI on Google. Unfortunately things did’t go too good! I removed left side rocker cover , but two screws on the right spark plug cover wouldn’t budge! As predicted I have chewed the heads. Any recommendations where to purchase replacement screws? I have ordered stuck screw remover bits on Amazon(Hope they will work! Thanks for your help.
If I remember correctly these are tiny Allen key, or Torx bit? I’ve got one with a dodgy thread also on the right side which makes me cringe every time I has to disturb it, I have been wondering could I do away with the plug covers altogether?
If they’re allen head screws (cap heads), find the torx bit that’s marginally bigger and hammer it in. Mind your fingers! It will cut itself a new grip area and the hammer shocks will help loosen the corrosion binding the screw in. Once the torx bit is in as far as it thinks it wants to go, use an impact driver with the torx bit.
I’ve removed recalcitrant and wrecked allen bolts from M5 to M10 using this method.
[Edit] I forgot to add, I hate those eze-outs (the tools you’ve bought from Amazon) with an absolute vengeance. They break easily and once broken it’s either a replacement part required or extremely expensive spark erosion to remove the eze-out and the bolt.
Have you considered helicoiling the thread? It really isn’t a difficult job but I have to admit to ensuring I had a clean pair of trousers to hand when I did it for the first time. There’s good videos on Youtube and the kits themselves aren’t that expensive.
I’m currently waiting for a new helicoil tool to arrive so I can fix a sump thread on the Monza that’s being rebuilt. I’m willing to bet that the day the tool arrives, I’ll find the old one…
Here’s an example; I was removing the M10 (8mm cap head size) pivot bolts from a BMW K100 main stand and they were well stuck in (blue Loctite which is a factory fitting). On the bolt on the left you can just see the new grip area made by the Torx bit. The bolt on the right needed beating off the torx bit because it was gripped so hard.
I don’t like the number of different screw drivers we need now but the torx head is a better shape for providing turning force without rounding away the screw (or the key)
Guilty as charged…a bit of pencil in my AJS…got called away briefly, came back to the bike and wondered where I’d put the bloody thing. Finished setting the timing with a new stick, and briefly wondered why bits of twig were popping out of the exhaust when I started it.
Pulled barrel off, and started again.
No apparent damage done, the optimist in me likes to think the graphite content might have been beneficial .
Here’s an example; I was removing the M10 (8mm cap head size) pivot bolts from a BMW K100 main stand and they were well stuck in (blue Loctite which is a factory fitting). On the bolt on the left you can just see the new grip area made by the Torx bit. The bolt on the right needed beating off the torx bit because it was gripped so hard.
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