Bleeding Brakes - Cali

I have stripped and cleaned the calipers on the Cali. and have the right hand side working well. ( syringe via the bleed nipple). The linked side doesn't want to know. I have syringed fluid from both front and rear up to the cylinder and pumped till I'm blue but no movement of the fluid. Could someone please help?    George.

Try closing all the bleed nipples and pump the pedal up and down for a good few minutes. It should all come good if you have all the air out.If there is still air in the system, try taking the caliper off and holding it up high so the air rises to the caliper and bleed it the trad way, using one of these. I use this all the time. Makes the job dead easy. Just pump away, it acts as a one way valve, just make sure you keep topping up the master cylinder.And don’t forget there is probably a bleed nipple on the splitter block, left hand side just behind the side panel. try bleeding it from there as well.

Don-Spada2013-06-06 00:01:09

if you draw a blank, tie the foot pedel to something heavy enough to hold it fully down and leave it for 24hrsmine myseriously started working after leaving itmy t5 does not have a bleed valve on the splitter

guzzi-t52013-06-06 07:59:55

remove the caliper from the bike and turn it upside down, thats how i do it. i think it tells you in the manuals to do it this way. if you leave the caliper on the bike the bleed niple is at the bottom and causes an air pocket. ps i have a cali 3,

To be perverse, I do it the ‘normal’ way, pumping the pedal. But as Don says if lots of air in the system then need to pump up the pedal, hold it down THEN open the bleed nipple, do it up, pump up pedal again and hold, repeat ad infinitum… I usually need to concentrate on the front first as that is the longest run of pipe, then switch to rear, then alternate, surprising how long it can take to be sure to get rid of ALL the bubbles. AND bleed jar needs to be higher than the brake system preferably, to encourage bubbles to go up and out of the caliper. Also a sticky master piston doesn’t help, if it’s not returning fully it won’t be taking fluid from the reservoir, resulting in mucho pedal movement with bugger all happening. If this is the case master cyl. may need a rebuild with new piston and seals. HTH
Mike H2013-06-06 11:14:19

i got stuck early on as the link brake splitter was full of dried brake fluid. after cleaning it was better but i had to bleep the splitter by loosening the brake switch a touch till it weeped fluid

Mike Try one of them there hose pieces. You can get them for a couple of quid from most motor factors, probably a fiver in Halfrauds. They are absolutely brilliant and so simple. Put it on the nipple, open it up and just pump the pedal or lever up and down. The tube acts as a one way valve so you don’t need to do the open, squeeze, shut, release, open, squeeze… Makes it a real quick job. Don-Spada2013-06-06 14:33:50

Ta, I understand. My example was for a particular difficulty. If it’s just a case of replacing fluid, the method I’ve used for yonks still works. The day it doesn’t, I will look into alternatives!

Thanks everyone, its great to know that there’s a lot of mates out there.George.

[QUOTE=George] Â Thanks everyone, its great to know that there’s a lot of mates out there.George.


Where about’s are you, someone local may be able to help if you get stuck

Those hoses do help especially when bleeding the front linked brake, saves being a contortionist with foot on the pedal, and hand on the spanner, the other side of the bike.

Dunno HOW many times ether I or Tim Hicks has posted how to belld brakes… takes under 30 seconds to do the front and only a fraction longer to do the rear. If it does not work then there are often other issues.

That said looked for it and it has dissapeared but maybe a search will reveal the info

Watch out if you get one of the bleed hoses with a valve. I used them for years without issue, then one day I kept getting fluid coming up through the bleed nipple threads… Turned out the ball bearing in the valve had stuck and it wasn’t immediately obvious nothing was coming out the end as it was submerged in the fluid in the jar. Took me ages to figure it out.

That’s a problem I’ve got in a couple of places, due to broken nipples being spark eroded, so threads are a bit loose.

Probably lost in the great clearout Ken. But the OP does say he syringed the fluid from front and rear back up to the master cylinder.
Brian UK2013-06-07 17:31:17

I’ve found that if the system or even just the master cylinder is empty when you start it can take a lot of bleeding. The best way I have found is to open up the bleed nipples wide to offer as little resistance as possible then just pump the pedal or lever just to get some fluid moving round the system. Once this happens you can usually go on to bleed them normally.

I had trouble bleeding the system on my 750T - it had stood for a long time before I bought it and new fluid seemed a wise move.

I had best success using a vet’s animal , plastic syringe (it holds 1/2 a litre) by pushing fluid through the bleed nipple and in to the system and then master cylinder reservoir. If you go at one end, partially empty the reservoir and then repeat at the other end to refill the master cylinder, any air gets pushed along and out. It’s a sort of DIY “power bleeder” that is common in agricultual workshops for purging hydraulic lines (except those are usually a cylinder and huge reservoir, powered by compressed air). It worked for me!

My wife is a vet and was very confused when I asked for several syringes to do my brakes

I get mine from Ebay - there are often non-sterile ones (the packaging has split) that go for very little money. I find them useful to have in the bench drawer.

Thanks all.  I tied the pedal down overnight and then pumped and pumped. I eventually got some pressure but had to take the back caliper off and turn it upside down. Also the front brake line had to be agitated (like me at the time) to get the air out .     There is no bleed nipple under the side cover on mine even though someone reckons there is.     In reply to Ian I'm in N.Ireland and Guzzis here are like hens' teeth.    Now to get a new tyre and MOT.     That is another problem, I like Metezler Marathons but couldn't get a front one here so had to make do with an Avon. Any comments and if I can get a Marathon for the rear will it cause any problems?     George.