Bleeding Brakes - Cali

tie down method worked well for mine, i left front caliper hanging up high for days and then rebleedTo be fair i have only ever seen 1 other guzzi on the road in the uk!if its an avon roadrider i would keep an eye on it, mines been junked as it was awfull after 1000 mils and starting to split

As the "method has gone here you go THIS works takes longer to type it than to do it.

You need:-

Ring spanner to undo the nipple

Syringe …although Tim Hicks got a small garden pump to do it with pressure

Some hose I use a fairly long bit, the hose needs to fit TIGHT to the brake nipple, I got some that I have to warm up to get it on

Clean Brake fluid

Plastic and towel to cover your tank, NOT just a rag as brake fluid will rip the paint off faster than a fast thing

To do the FRONT Brake

Place protection on the tank or tank area should you take the tank OFF

Undo master cyl and suck out the brake fluid OR leave cap on undo nipple and fit the hose LEAVE the spanner on the nipple. Pump fluid into an old jam jar or similar.

Right now for the fun bit

Fit syringe to clean hose and suck up new brake fluid

Hold syringe high one reason I use long hose is so I can stand up and see the master cyl

Fit end of hose to nipple that has spanner still on it.

Open nipple, flick with finger the hose you will see all the bubbles go up into the syringe.

(This is why it is difficult to bleed the thing the air keeps going back up.)

Now gently that is GENTLY push the syringe keep a good eye on the master cyl as the fluid CAN really squirt out of it. TIP pop some cling film over the open top

You will be surprised how little fluid it needs to fill up to the master cyl

Once the fluid goes into the mast cyl enough to cover the hole STOP tighten nipple.

You can top up the master pop the top on it them pump the brake till you have it closed then re-check fluid level.

The rear IS a bit more complicated BUT once system is empty use similar method for the front with the rear nipple(s) closed. I get help as the mastcyl is on th opposite side.

STOP when mast cyl has enuff fluid to cover the hole. then close off front and go to rear caliper follow same proceedure but you need to add less fluid when done.

This method is quick and easy to master and gets rid of the trapped air bubble behind calipers that so often happens.

I swapped to single nipple calipers years ago the twin ones are more difficult BUT when I helped a mate I found an old Y piece from some air horns fitted that at the caliper end and fitted the 2 hoses one to each nipple.

It was a faff filling the hoses but it did work and made the job so easy he kept the Y piece

If you want to copy this please do then cut and paste once you do it thisway you will always do it

I got syringes from Boots but you can get large basting syringes and other ones easily on line.

guzzibear2013-06-11 12:11:32

Also if you got painted front mudguard. Guess how I know. Or, to be absolutely safe, take them off, a Tonti’s tank is virtually QD
Mike H2013-06-11 17:43:58

I have similar problems with my Targa. I have fitted stainless braided hoses so fully drained the system. Bought a vacuum pump kit and after drawing through two litres of fluid, still couldn’t get a hard foot lever for the linked circuit. The front (independent)bled up just fine. Just received delivery of a master cylinder refurb kit from Gutsibits as after three evenings of bleeding in more ways than one, had to conclude there was another issue. The old fluid which I drained out was like treacle though the pedal was fine. With new fluid, no pressure though there was pressure at the rear but little came out of the front calliper. Will refurb the master cylinder this weekend and update so fingers crossed.

If that reverse pressure system does NOT work you do have other issues in there buddy that is for sure.

Been doing it on the V1000 for many yrs easy peasy and quick takes longer to type it than do it.

Under a minute for the front and under 5 mins for the rear tho’ it does help to have a helper for the rear one really as you can’t see the master cyl.

Once the fluid gets to the master cyl and covers the hole there it is pretty certain there is NO air in the system…IF there is something blocked in the system you will never bleed it.

You do need to pump the pedal for a good long while after bleeding to get the pistons back in the correct place. I think they tend to stay back in the calipers for a while and need a good push to get them in contact with the discs.

blockages in the linked brake manifold caused all of my problems early on

REMEMBER if you have to pump the pedal or lever to check the master cyl fluid level peeps …

At risk of stating the obvious, the piston seals deliberately have some sideways flex so that they pull the pistons off the disc when released, so means the pistons have to ‘otch’ themselves up to the disc in small steps as the pads wear, but if you’ve pushed them back and pumped up there’s always the last little bit where they won’t quite go that last gnat’s whisker until the pads have bedded down a bit more. Appendix edit ~ if you’ve got the old steel pistons you can have quite a problem with them sticking in the seals or even the cylinders due to rust on the outside surface.

Mike H2013-06-17 17:55:08