this is the original cylinder with new piston rebuild kit both front and back systems never had this much trouble on any other bike!!
Again - PATIENCE!
Once the cylinder are filled with brake fluid - then you will experience a gradually harder & harder pedal.
As written before - the system depends on FLUID in the cylinder(s) - wont happily pump just air…
PS. one of my friends, becoming desperate, used his wifes vacuum cleaner to suck - with instant results!!
(Just use some painters tape to Wind around the bleeding-pipe - until it fits inside the vacuum cleaners much larger pipe - it Works - guaranteed!)
Yes I would have so too.
If you reverse bleed Guzzi brakes and find no pressure at all irrespective of even buying a NEW master cyl 9/10 times it IS the master cyl not working correctly.
The hydraulic system IS relatively simple on most Guzzis (ABS is to me a dark art) the mast cyl merely pumps and pressurises the system , which if full has to work.
the things that stop it are
-
Air in the system, it will pressurise but feel spongy or take two pumps the lock up the brakes
-
aIR LEAK…PRESSURISES BUT GO TO IT LATER AND NOTHING
-
OOps caps lock sorry … the master cyl is not pressurising. I got mine done with a refurb kit then popped to my dealer who only asked £5 to fit it all… easy peasy. cheaper than buying some red grease and circlip pliers it was.
Yes if it just won’t pressure up, like as not summat’s up with the M/C, examples, A. piston won’t return fully or is slow to return which is also a bad sign (I’ve experienced some of this); B. crap in it (see CylvaBirch above); C. knackered return spring… D. there is a microscopic hole in the centre of the reservoir, this must be clear. HTH
Mike H2014-01-11 12:03:22
I have a pump oil can and back bleed from the calipers upwards, works a treat and you don’t even have to pump the lever.
I use a big syringe it does NOT take much, by the way cover the open top of master cyl it can squirt everywhere and sure knackers the paintwork.
Mind you doing it in the conventional direction sure exercises and tests the workings of the M/C so any probs with it should become more obvious.
Its bleeding the clutch that gives me more grief than the brakes. does reverse bleeding on that work?
Also the reservoir gasket is a pain the first time I did it on the clutch as I filled it about half full put the gasket thing in and promptly had clutch fluid every where. worrd of warning the clutch reservoir has very little fluid in it!
Dunno never done it… BUT it is the same principal in as much that air goes UP and you attempt to push it out DOWN so it becomes more difficult.
The pushing fluid up the brake with something as simple as a syringe takes under a minute and works every time UNLESS the master cyl is compromised.
So at a guess IF you can get into the system at the lowest point it should work the same.
There are different methods, BUT I tend to like
Simple
Cheap
Easy
Yes, funny how some hydraulic clutches seem to give problems. Never had to touch the one on the Norge in over 4 years.However the principle is the same, so reverse bleeding should work well.