The simple reason for not changing the charging light bulb is that it is in balance with the system, 12V+ one side and 12V- the other, light is on, 12V+ both sides light goes off, the wattage of the bulb is also geared to the charging system so leave the B***** alone.Cheers, Gerry.
Duffo2013-08-20 16:00:25
Bad example, I can’t find anything that doesn’t bang on about the new regs. But then I remembered I had a link to this: http://www.ukmot.com/bike/1-5.asp Seems I’m wrong about the high beam warning light though.
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Right on Gerry me ol matey…Basically cos it JUST WON’T f*****G work…
I was for a long time very sceptical about the dash charge bulb ‘booting’ the alternator to start it up, on the basis that the current is piddlingly small, until that is I tried a spice simulation of the complete charging system about a year or so ago, and b*gger me it’s true EDIT: this presupposes you need all good clean connections for it as well.
Mike H2013-08-20 21:14:04
Simple, the light has to allow a current to pass through enough to excite the alternator stator to produce magnetism. An LED will not do this.Once the system is up and running, the current for the rotor comes direct from the rectifier, thus extiguishing the bulb as there will be 12v both sides.
Actually a LED could be used IF you’ve got say a 100 Ohms resistor in parallel, that should make it ‘look like’ a small 1.2W light bulb.
what you dont fit cant break !!
Possibly, but is it really worth it?
It’s an option if the bulb connectors keep playing up.
That’s it mike go for the complicated option mate … New bulb is easy to fit
Yes I wish I hadn’t got involved