On my 2005 Breva 1100, the turn indicators on the RHS are flashing twice as fast as normal. Then, a red warning light appears on the dash, and the “blown bulb” symbol on the LCD panel. _However, both bulbs are still working…_The warning light and symbol disappear if the ignition is switched off, but reappear as soon as the RHS indicators are used. All the other lights are working OK.What I’ve tried so far:Search this site and GuzziTech to see if anyone else has had the same thing. It seems not…Remove RHS bulbs front and rear, clean bulbs and contacts. Swap RHS bulbs with LHS bulbs, front and rear.Locate wiring connectors for all four indicators, undo them, then re-connect to clean the contacts.All to no avail.It seems illogical that the bulbs can be causing the fault. Also, according to the wiring diagram, the earth for the indicators is shared with other lights, both front and rear, so I’m tempted to think they’re OK.I understand the flashing is controlled by the electronics in the dash, so there’s no flasher relay to go phut.Before I kneel in the direction of Mandello, and sacrifice a Quattro Stagioni, any helpful suggestions?
Blind Lemon Ade2014-03-05 12:56:16
BAD Earth
Check the return wires
Or have you got the correct wattage bulbs in there.
Higher the wattage the slower they go
Ta,The bulbs are orange with offset pins, so quite unusual I think, and difficult to get wrong? The same bulbs were working OK until the winter lay-off.I’ll try checking the earths with a multimeter… if I can work out how!
Orange bulbs with offset pins are basic bulbs available at most auto factors BUT the contacts will and DO corrode , check and clean in holder and the bulb itself i hd this happen on the rear rack fitted Givi bulb holders causing a fault like you describe, took the bulbs out cleaned contact on bottom of bulb and in connector a spray with servisol (WD40 if nothing else not as good but it will work) bulbs back all good BUT do check the earth to the bulb holders as well.
I also had this fault on a Merc car THAT was a corroded contact at the fuse. Any corosion will increase the resistance and on elektrikery controls often shows up as “blown bulb” whan they are all lit, we also have this happen on the Sprinter vans at work and have to clean the copper contacts at the rear doors they are 4 copper prongs contacting on 4 copper plates.
Most likely a poor connector on one of the RH indicators or the switch. Is one bulb looking a bit more dim that the other? Or are both RH bulbs slightly dimmer? This would suggest a switch contact.Have you tried disconnecting the big multi pin connector on the back of the dash? Do that and spray the pins with an electrical contact cleaner/lubricant.
Thanks, chaps - I’ll try all those things…I have cleaned the bulbs, pulled all the fuses, and pulled apart the “easily accessible” connectors, but not the big one in the dash - haven’t got that far in, yet. Neither have I checked the switch itself. I’ll let yer know!
Oh, and while I think about it…The fuel pipe connector on the rear of the tank - how on earth are you supposed to get it off?I’ve tried pushing the hose while retracting the (ahem) fitting, but no luck. So far, I’ve just pulled, hard, but am I in danger of damaging the red pipe it connects to?The tank’s been on and off like the nether garments of a lady of negotiable virtue, lately, and I’m thinking there must be an easier way…
www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SYAS5xsUlo
have a look at this video give a good idea of how to do it. Also a google search will help.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3PC-CAR-FUEL-LINE-DISCONNETION-PLIER-SET-PETROL-DIESEL-PIPE-REMOVAL-TOOL-/141048240441?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item20d7215939
The green removal pliers10mm work very well.
Various makes are available through eblag…
sorry unable to post the working URL you may have to copy n Paste(Thanks Brian)
Jamie
wits2014-03-06 20:26:59
First of all, disconnect the pump electrical connector, then try to start the engine. This will depressurise the fuel lines.Be careful pulling at the pile, if you break the red connector out of the pump you have a big problem.I use a 12mm open ended spanner, placed behind the connector ring(on the tank side) push the pipe towards the spanner, then push the spanner slowly away from the tank fitting. Slowly is the operative word, there is an O ring in the fitting and this is quite tight, so slow gentle movement is crucial.
Ah, it’s a “black art”… I suspected as much…
Well it helps if you close your eyes. You can’t see what you’re doing under there anyway.
Guess what? The problem has disappeared without my doing anything. On this morning’s run, the indicator started off flashing too fast, then next time I used it, it was normal speed. It carried on being intermittent for a bit, then stayed at the normal speed.So how the hell am I going to find the problem now? Anyway, the other good news is that the GuzziTech mod, of filling the engine temperature sensor with thermal goo, has helped with the “fast idle” problem.It seemed a lot happier to idle at 1500rpm, and didn’t get faster when the clutch was pulled in, or a gear selected. Hurrah!
Well that’s a connection problem, possibly in the switch. There is the other mod of closing the air bleed to the stepper motor when the engine is warm.Putting heat transfer mastic behind the temp sensor affects the mixture more than the idle speed.
Hi BLA, the indicator problem is one that my 05 Breva 1100 has suffered from since the year dot. Have tried everything over the years, new bulbs, new connectors etc. etc. Mine tend to work OK in the wet but as soon as the sun comes out, off they go with the fast blink. My MoT man has accepted the fault as he reckons the rate is JUST under 2 per second. Part of the problem seems to be that the faulty bulb detection looks for a high resistance in the circuit, then deems the bulb as failed, guess it is just built into some of the bikes, possibly an ECU fault.
Cheers, Gerry.
Ah. . Looks like many happy weekends of fault-finding ahead, and hoping it works OK on MOT Day…But hey, if that was a bad thing, I’d have bought a Honda!