OK I’ve gone through all of the things you lot have suggested and, yes the clutch was out so I have sorted that out, and when checking and cleaning the alternator connectors, I found that it was completely ruined and had melted inside! Which I am hoping is the cause of battery draining/non-charging problem! I was going to post a picture but not sure how or if I can on here, so just imagine a blackened melted 4 pin connector!
Thanks for all your help once again! I will keep you posted on whether the problems are sorted or not!
There try that…
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1497786_10151797435266568_1878003535_n.jpg
Kujaseph2014-01-07 14:37:23
Picture for you
Yes, I think you can safely say that this would rduce the charging ability of the alternator.These spade terminals ar all well and good when new, but the spriong contact can failover time, and a loose connection is a high resistance connection. This produces heat, with the result shown in the picture.General advice, always make sure any spade terminals grip tightly.
There ya go. Yes soon as you get a bit of heat 'cause of bad contact, makes more heat which softens the metal so the connectors go even more loose, then it’s a runaway situation, ends up melting the plastic then it’s well stuffed Had this problem on a Mini once, from the top of the starter solenoid all the power for the whole of the rest of the car went through one (yes one) quarter-inch blade connector, rediculous EDIT: the heat of course is from the resistance of the bad contact.
Mike H2014-01-08 12:08:41
bingoclutch adjustments - be warned there are 2 adjusters.One on the back of the hand lever that everybody knows about, but also one in the middle of the clutch arm on the back of the box. It is very important that the one on the arm is not permanently resting on the end of the clutch pushrod as it will toast the pushrod thrust bearing. Access to view is left side with your head under the footpegs. There is a 10mm locknut from memory. Correct adjustment method is :- 1st completely slacken off the adjuster on the hand lever- then adjust the arm so it does not quite touch the pushrod (I think there is a recommended clearance but I cannot remember offhand)- then adjust the hand lever Suggest you get some spray grease (chainlube!) and spray back of gearbox, especially in winter when it gets hit by salty road spray. It will help lubricate clutch arm pivot (can seize and snap off gearbox), lubricates the pushrod thrust bearing and also the gear linkages, also the gear pedal shaft in the tube in line with lefthand footpeg behind the casting.
tickover variations could be an airleak on inlets or the exhausts however also could be the “choke” fast idle mechanism being incorrectly setup on end of righthand throttle. It’s got a cam there to give fast idle but if the cable is not correctly setup such that the cam does not back off fully then it can be acting as a variable thottle stop. Note idle will probably need reseting if you have to fix that, but there are some throttle stops that you must not play with as that can knacker the throttle bodies.
Ideally make gearbox rear arm adjuster screw inline with pushrod at the point where maximum leverage is required, at least it is on the old models. Also make sure the pivot pin and all that stuff is derusted and free and greased.
When My V11 did that to the fuse connector it also DID kill the regulator. Once you replace the burnt connectors test the charging volts at the battery. If they are high you may have killed the reg/rectifier… but you may be licky. The V11 is fitted with the Ducati type altenator and reg/rectifier, no idea what is on the Breva tho’
Ah I didn’t realise about that second adjuster, thanks again Lawrence! I shall go and have a tinker with that now.
I had actually replaced the regulator/rectifier not too long ago so hopefully it is fine, we’ll soon find out!
Forgot to mention, re gearbox arm adjuster, of course must also be sure that: A. arm does not touch back of 'box when fully pulled up; and B. make sure it does not touch frame or swingarm or whatever’s behind it when fully released, then that’s your optimum range of movement. HTH