Decided to throw caution to the wind and drive the bugger for a couple of miles then burp it. The reason I stripped & rebuilt it in the first place was to try an eliminate a whine which was getting worse last autumn. The wear pattern on the crown and pinnion was acceptable and I replaced that stupid stupid needle race on the offside which collapses after water gets in then seizes onto the spacer. New oil seals all round. I reckon it’s a case of too much oil plus unseasonal heat and, some “exuberant” driving last week. If it stops peeing down I’ll get a thrash in before the MotoGP/F1 & Murray being swiss rolled and report back.
“after water gets in” ?
Never heard of that before.
Rebuilt mine about 10 yrs ago in a ‘new’ casing 'cause of knackered drain thread, a repair caused swarf to get in and damage the seals.
Went back together first time (more or less), hasn’t leaked to date. Even not burping it which I’ve never heard of either TBH 'til I came here.
OK - rain stopped play at Mad Farquhar towers so dropped off the rear wheel and took a decko - as expected nothing really obvious. Bit of oil on lower half of main oil seal on inner casing but slight amount on inside item 28 interior also (Corilolis effect?). So greased up drive line and the little needle bearing that gets wet & collapses - 2 & 2A on diagram. Rebuilt back end, fired up on paddock stand and let drag take back wheel round for a minute or two on idle - no drips so far. Played with idle spark advance and inj duration whilst waiting for showers to pass. No farts or coughs again - splendid.Pretty grey - may not chance it today.check out his thread for the saga of the needle bearing removal:- http://www.motoguzziclub.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13241
Mad Farquhar2012-07-08 15:35:05
Ah right I’m out of experience here then, this is not like an older Tonti box.
May or may not help with the little needle bearing getting wet (who the hell designed that anyway? ) there’s a vaguely similar prob with R80 l/h rear wheel bearing seal, viz road grit getting in and damaging it (as it’s totally exposed to the outside world), commonly recommended prevention is to coat the outside of it with grease.
The saga had continued these past 3 weeks. I had put off ripping the bevel box apart but decided that 50 ml of loss over 70 miles was becoming critical. So - off with the wheel, off with the box, and rippidy dippity into the entrails. The inner seal had shed its springy thing so I popped it back on and now when I took it for a run I get pressure! Pressure is good because pressure means seals are holding. So burped and got the hiss. And you know what hisses mean…?Better order a gasket for the box though - just in case.Hisses mean changes in pressure and now there is one from the R/H throttle body area - you know what hisses mean…?
Mad Farquhar2012-08-03 21:33:07
Good job, I was discussing this very thing earlier with Ray, If you get a teeny bit of weep …burp it and leave it usually a seal gone is a very very noticable oil loss, not that difficult a job as it is 9/10 times the large seal.
Well for goodness sake
So there ya go, was leaking past seal all the time
tried this after the last service on the t5 and had no presure at all, but i dont have any leaks … did guzzi change the sealing arangement as time went buy?
guzzi-t52012-08-07 09:31:34
It’s a different arrangement on the spine frames - the 'box must remain sealed as there is no swingarm driveshaft tube so leaks will always show up. I don’t have any pressure on my Cali EV 'box so it’s a possibility that the seal to the driveshaft may be letting by. I can’t see it being a major problem as any venting there is going slightly uphill and will keep the splines lubricated, and there always seems to be the right amount coming out when I drain it.
guzzijack2012-08-07 11:30:35