Cali EV power loss when hot

Since you have a blocked moat drain and it also rains there I still think you may have a plugged filter.
I took mine off and shook it up with some fuel inside then let it run back out the inlet into a shop cloth in a can.
The cloth blocked right off.
Another clue is a noisy pump, if the filter is blocked the pressure can shoot up to 70 psi and pop the relief valve inside the pump
meanwhile the pressure downstream of the filter is too low for the injectors.
The pump normally draws about 5 Amps, if the filter is blocked it will be up to 9
You can measure the current by taking the relay out and probing 30 to 87 in the relay socket, don’t need the key on.
---- 30
---- 87
| | | 85, 87a, 86

With the key Off the coils and injectors will not draw any current but the pump will run.

As I said before while the pump is not running some rust will drop off the filter surface creating a temporary path for fuel but it soon plugs off again

After 12 months of fiddling, fettling, analysing, swapping parts out, tuning and adjusting, each bit helping but never really curing the underlying problem; I have finally fixed it!

Kiwi_roy’s very first comment:

The power loss, are you sure it’s not missing on one cylinder at times.
My EV was fitted with resistor caps and also had the carbon core HT cable which was open at one end.

.

Why didn’t I take more notice?
It was faulty carbon core HT cables, now replaced with good old-fashioned copper core HT cables and resistor caps.

How can I be sure it’s cured, well apart from it running beautifully for a couple of long test runs, it promptly started snowing!