Good advice GB but where can you get snoor washers these days?G.
Get mine from a local fastners supplies they are spec on the clutch of the V1000 so i guess Gutsibits/mecca or corsa will have them
well done all, teamwork won the day! (oh and a big hammer lol)
Yes indeed. Just got the swing arm pivot berings out. A bit of weld run around them to shrink them, some jiggery-pokery and out they came.Just the right sized socket down the tube to drift out the UJ support bearing and all ready for powder coating 5 minutes walk away!The old paint is ancient polyester coating which never had a decent primer, peeling off in sheets!I can see where I’m heading! If the gearbox is coming out, there’s not much else to take off to get a decent powder coat on the whole frame.
thebit e e h powder coat is IF it does get even a pin hole in it by te tim you see a problem there is a real hole under it. Paint done right is nowadays hard and durable BUT if it chips you can see it and retouch it easily powder coating is very difficult to remove and harder to touch up…
I agree, powder coat isn’t ideal.I’m unfamiliar with the modern alternatives. Any tips on what to ask for?“Maldon Shotblasting Co” are very handy for me and I’m sure they can do paint as well as powder coat, or get it done.I can call in on Monday morning and talk it over. Or, is there anybody else in the Essex area that anyone can particularly recommend. I’m looking for durable, rather than “super shiney” (but not against shiney, if it is durable!)
I painted mine some years ago with a gloss black paint after a very good prep and primer.
Black gloss is durable and easy to touch up.
To be fair it is the prep and undercoat that takes time to do a good zinc primer then the paint primer then top coat and a hardener , No matter what you use a frame WILL get chips and nicks DO NOT forget to make sure the main Earth point is left bare metal.
I know of one guy who had a powder coat job done only to find no earth point THEN you have to cut through the powder coat to make one and THAT is gonna allow ingress under the PC …and that is a recipe for disaster.
I often wonder if Powdercoating is not really brill for a road bike, great for a show bike, but I have seen some real disasters caused by a slight blemish then water ingress and it eating the metal beneath the powdercoat. I much prefer to SEE a chip and be able to pop some paint on it, it may not look brill over Winter but it is easy to then revisit the places like swing arm and front downtubes give it a rub down , putty primer |I use brush on tetraseal then light rub down fills any blemish and a smoothright brush over , brushed on goes on far thicker than spray can without the spray over and it smooths out and shows NO brush marks the ONLY down side is it takes a week to fully harden but you can reassemble after a day a go too soon and you can leave fingerprints in the finish, 1 guess as to how I found that out !!! mind you it can prove it IS your bike
guzzibear2013-04-13 15:45:35
Black brush-on Hammerite ~ easy to touch-up with a brush if as and when… Just me 2’pennorth
Got the gearbox out this evening. The clutch centre (Original shallow spline) is noticably notched, that and ample evidence of the gearbox oil seal behind the clutch centre being well worn, shows that my hunch was correct, and it was worth going this far in, and aiming to fit the later deep spline parts.
Yes a new splined boss and seal then, I would. Mine was very badly notched before it was changed, it got so bad it worked like a sprag clutch, uni-directional, I mean was practically impossible to push the bike backwards while in gear and clutch disengaged, even when the engine wasn’t running!