Brian, you are right that soldering up the superseal connectors is 80% of the work on this project. But rather than soldering in the diode to the sensor wire, use some detachable connectors. That way you can swap in different diodes, or a length of wire to bring it back to stock condition. The superseal connectors aren’t too expensive, I had to source them from Spain and the UK (and I live in the USA). They are difficult to build by hand, but that’s what a winter project is all about, eh?
@ Pete no worries, just wondering if you’d seen it on’t web somewhere and taken it as ‘gospel’
Hi Llamaman,It’s possible to disable the O2 sensor entirely in software without using any diodes or in-line modifications. I did exactly that on my 1200 Sport 8V and the difference in low-speed smoothness was very noticeable, though I wasn’t getting any backfires or popping beforehand. The advantage of this approach is no tinkering with wiring, it’s easily reversible and free (if you have the right cables and a PC).PM me if you’d like more info and perhaps where you’re based. If you’re around the Cambridge area I’ll happily take a look.Paul
I buy my electrical connections from here
AESianboydsnr2014-01-22 20:43:14
I do know the one made by Finbeau Forge advertised in the parts stuff does work BUT only on the bikes it is made for.
To be honest I get popping and fharrrting on the V11 Le Mans at the 2500 rpm mark, more sometimes than others.
BUT I am told that system does not benefit from the add on gizmo’s. It does get less with the super unleaded BUT IF you have one of the older FI bikes and are in Ireland where there is NO soopah unleaded then it makes no difference I suspect the bikes must be tuned to run base unleaded.
I did have mine set up to run th more open “bellisimo” (un) silencers and to run soopah unleaded and as others will testify it does certainly go rather well
No Mike H it was a really stupid thing for me to say specially considering I’ve been in electronics since Valves were the in thing.
Valves, I remember them.
Ah, shame on you then. Smack botty
Ahhh the hummm of warming valves and the tell tale wiff when the Transformer is too hot… The soft glow as they get all warm and cosy before producing a well rounded SOuuuuunnnnndddddddd
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Can YOU imagine trying to get an electronic ignition working using valves…you would need a trailer attachedguzzibear2014-01-24 12:05:45
Well in practical terms it wouldn’t have been that difficult. Car radios in those days used miniature valves with a unit under the passenger seat that hummed away producing H.T. using nothing more complicated than a buzzer to interrupt the 12V battery supply to a step-up transformer plus rectifying and smoothing etc. of course. But 'spect points were simpler and of course the heels didn’t wear out as fast the modern ones.
I can envisage a CDI set-up using a thing called a thyratron (spelling?) as the discharge switch to dump the charge and make the spark.
Is “valves” the English word for what Yankees call vacuum tubes?Otherwise I have no idea what you are all taking about.
Wow, haven’t seen those for while Brian.
A thyratron would be the thing. Here in Britain they’re called valves because that’s what they do. Of course vacuum tubes is what the American call them.
Thanks Pete. The name “valves” is descriptive but I’ve never heard in the US.
Actually they’re called valves because the first one was just a rectifier, with hot cathode and anode plate, that allowed current to flow in one direction only ergo like a non-return valve.
Every time I see pics like that I think of EL34’s and 6L6’s that made UK guitarists world famous for their bluesy sound (sighing wistfully)
And they still do
Yeahhhh maannnnn
I might take you up on that Paul! I’ve covered just 200 miles on my 1200 Sport and don’t know yet whether I have a problem with the fuelling, but if I find a problem I know now where to come for a solution.
After 10 years on a V4 VFR it’s hard to know whether my 1200 is rougher than it should be or “they are all like that sir”
TonyTooJuicy2014-03-26 18:39:07