HELP Stud Removal

Hi Guys, need your help again with my Targa Saga. The small sump drain plug broke so, to get it extracted, I took off the sump. As always, all except one Allen screw came un-done. The last wouldn’t budge and eventually snapped off but fortunately, close to the head leaving me with 10mm or so of stud. No problem I though, a pair of mole grips will undo that! Nope. I have soaked it in wd40, tapped it sharply with a hammer, heated it with a hot air gun and still it wont budge. I have resisted really swinging on the mole grip because I don’t want to break it off flush with the underside of the crankcase. Having gripped it with the moles, I doubt now that I could wind two nuts on and use that old trick and yes I know I should have done that first. The restoration of this Targa is really trying me as its been one long round of agro and last night I felt like digging a hole and burying the thing. Any ideas or help with digging the hole?

Soak it with WD40 each day for a week and then try again. If it snaps off you can drill it out (carefully!) start with a centre punch as close to the centre as possible then drill a small pilot hole (say about half the thread diameter or less) then use drill bits .5mm dia larger each time until it comes out and clean the thread up with a tap. If the thread gets damaged use a thread insert like Helicoil. Good luck!

Agree with above but buy a tin a proper anti sieze.WD40 is a compromise at best.

WD works on the slightly siezed bolt etc BUT for real freeing oil Plus Gas everytime and it will need a long soak in it.

ANY bike when restoring can be a pain Jeez even basic jobs on some Japanese bikes cause problems especially older ones with the crap X head screws.

Replaced all the fastners on Annies Virago with stainless allen headed ones when we got it.

try a plummers torch

pop a nut over the stud and run a little weld around the end.Presto… you get the heat to help loosen it and a nut to put the spanner onRob

Good idea if you have a welder.

Used to do it all the time when I worked on the shop floor. Even if the stud broke off below the surface. Usually used a washer though and just welded a piece of bar to that. It worked 9 times out of 10I think it also requires a little skill and confidence.Rob

Not being critical jh but I suspect anyone who has access to a welder will know this.My ex next door neighbour was a welder /plumber.Even more usefull than a rampant teenage lass with a crush on me.

Yep, don’t have access to a welder and anyway, even if I did, not sure my first go at welding wants to be welding uphill to the underside of a stud. I will take the patient route and keep sploshing WD onto it twice a day for a week (sounds like doctor’s orders)and if that doesn’t work and it snaps as I bet it will, buy some new quality drill bits and bite the bullet or in this case, the stud. All this because changing the engine oil was the very last job before booking an mot. God these Guzzi’s know where to kick you don’t they?

Sounds OK but buy a proper anti sieze spray. It will be much better and is probobly cheaper than WD40.
You will probobly find it usefull elsewhere on an older Guzzi.iandunmore2013-05-08 13:59:32

Check out e blag for left hand fluted drills.( not a wind up )
Got a set from the states about £12.00 delivered
Set of about 16 drills imperial sizes biggest about 1/4".
They cut anticlockwise so rotate same way as stud comes out,
The heat and torque may help remove the stud.
Plus gas I found to be best.
Another is gear oil and acitone as legend has it!!!
Good luck

ATF and acetone works well (removed seized Le Mans 2 engine bolt with it) but won’t help you here. Lots of heat and patience.

Before you even attempt to drill the stud out your self ask around at
Local Branch
Local decent bike/car repair shop
Local engineering works

ask them IF they could get it out, by the way you may need more than WD40, if it is that stuck Plus Gas will penetrate where others don’t.

Oh yeah get y self some anti seize, copper grease at least and use it with ALL the nuts/bolts studs.

Guessing the engine is in the bike as you were MoT ready.In this case you’re fighting gravity when sprying on any chemicals.ATF and acetone (nail varnish remover 99p from Home Bargains) soaked into a rag and held in place with a block/jack etc.Hot air gun pretty much useless as you are losing a huge amount of heat through the crankscae/frame etc. A blow lamp (watch out for combustable materials!) working along the area around the stud to get a general heating then pop the rag on and come back tomorrow to do it again.If you can’t weld a nut on you could use two nuts tihjtened against each other.(EDIT: Just realised how difficult this might be in this case) These are very good Taqrga will be worth it in the endAll the bestSteve
guzzibrat2013-05-09 09:36:33

Just a Thought if you can’t get heat on it.

I had to change a valve on the central heating the other day and had to use one of them there DIY pipe freezing kits and was amazed how good it was

If you taped the little foam jacket the kit comes with around the stud could you possibly make it shrink enough to let the penetrating oil in.

At least you can do it in situ without - just don’t hit it with anything while V cold as it could shatter

this worked after plus gas for my broken clutch stud:
Fixed the link.Brian UK2013-05-09 08:56:39

Have you ever tried removing the end of one of those extractors when they break off in the drilled out stud?

Great idea i was given an aerosol of ‘joint freeze’ to evaluate; never thought of this 9until now!)All the bestSteve

Mmmm I’m really thinking I’d take that engine out again to get good access to this thread on the bench. It sounds like a little nasty. Two nuts counter tightened probably wouldn’t do, even if you had enough showing, but you’d have to try it first. If you can’t weld something to it, the vise grips might be your man. Like most people are saying - lots of soaking with Plus Gas, or maybe try diesel, for a few days. Work it in both directions at first, rather than just trying to loosen it. If it comes to drilling it, I would cut it flush first. Then put the tiniest mark with the centre punch first, and have a look to make sure you’re as close to the centre as possible. That way you can move closer to where you want to be before finally punching it. You’ll feel the punch finding the little mark again and you can then tap it in the required direction. Patience is key. I’ve done umpteen of these over the years and it’s still a great feeling when it starts to come out for you. I can even feel it as I’m writing. Best of luck.BrianBOfadaD2013-05-09 23:01:01