Right all you clever types.It’s one of those rare days when I can work on the bike and rather than send my brain into melt down with wiring, I tought I would sort out the rear end.I am fitting a different mudguard, wire wheel, in place of the cast one and new lighting and indicators. Well, mudguard seems to be straight forward and my light fits - not fiddled with indicators yet. That leaves the wheel!Why do I do these things?Wire wheel needs top hat spacer, right?Spacer fits narrow side to bearing, right?OK, wheel fits, spins freely and all seems well.That is till I come to fit the calipers - neither will fit.The caliper mounting plate is too far from the disc - so when the caliper is slotted over the disc, it will not fit over the mounting holes on the plate.Now the freeky part, the distance it is out seems to be pretty much equal to the width of the top hat spacer.Have I done something stupid again?Do spoked wheels always need the spacer?I don’t know what to do.

Right, I’ve taken away the top hat spacer and all seems to fit. I am now thinking something terrible is going to happen!Upon finishing playing with the rear wheel and drilling and fitting the rear mudguard, I decided to confront the wiring again. What a god awful mess! Just about every wire (and there are dozens on the Convert) has been joined and/or extended, sometimes several times and of course, each time with a different colour than what it should be. The spaghetti in and around the headlanmp is ridiculous. I am getting bamboozled. Where the wiring diagram is logical the harness is just, well, different. I think I may resort to paying someone to sort it out.Does anyone know a wiring person in West Cornwall?

not sure on the spacer but one observation is
if the wheel with spacer fits between swinging arm then it needs the spacer or else when you bolt it up on the axle bolt it will try to squeese shut the swing arm

I can uderstand that Ray, but if I put the spacer in it spaces the Brake plate to far from the disc.I don’t really know what is going on!

Surely not.The axle will find its own place and then you do up the locking bolt on the lhs.
The wheel should be in the same place, just the caliper in a different one.
and i know los wellman ran a bike with wire wheels for several years before he realised he needed the spacer.

swapped from wire to cast and back using the same brake plate and caliper the wire wheels DO need a spacer, BUT the discs on the cast wheels have different spacing to the discs on the wire wheels.

For indicators IF you want some that LOOK similar to the round ones of the time BUT are far better than the CEV ones look at the round Yamaha ones with the chrome stalk I think from a 350 yam if memory serves, they fit great on the front into the headlamp fitting and will fit onto the mudguard where it “flats”

IF you have panniers fitted you may have to do a reshuffle tho’

Will have a look see what i can find
but as far aas i know the wheel and spacer has to just fit between the swing arm ,the spacer will keep the wheel c/w bearings pressed onto the spline drive if the spacer is left out the only thing holding the wheel onto the drive splines is the tightness of the bearings on the shaft and the disc brake
also as you tighten the nut on the spindle drive side it will try to squeese the gap shut where the spacer is missing untill the nut runs out of thread as the spindle opposite side is stepped where it fits in the swinging arm

Yes, this begs the question is the bearing spacer in the wheel and the bearings tight against it.


Use the coloured wiring diagram I sent you as a guide, and start by identifying each part of electrical equiptment, you could draw a simple sketch of each item (alternator, rectifier, relays etc.) with the terminal numbers marked on the sketch and a note of the wire colour on each terminal (this is realy useful if you then pull it all apart!). Check this against the wiring diagram. If there are major differences check them against the wiring diagram for your model, if this tallies then stick with that and make a note on the paper diagram I sent you.

Trace each wire and check if the other end is connected where it should be. If wires are joined to new ones of the wrong colour put a tag of masking tape around the wrong coloured wire and write on the tag the correct colour. You can replace the wires later with the correct colour or just change the wiring diagram. (Or ask me to do a new one for you!)

Get to know separate circuits first and separate them in your mind from the others, try starting with the indicators, then tail lights, clock ilumination etc. This way you will soon learn what does what and where it runs. Check each circuit for continuity using a multi meter or a tester with a light or buzzer.

When you have checked all circuits on the correct wiring diagram, any other wire on the bike will have been added, see where it runs from and to, some additional earths are very useful, a cut out switch on the side stand may not be, depending on your view of that chestnut.

It is a logical system, and needs you to approach it logically.

Good luck!

I know it sounds obvious but with the electrics make sure they are clean clean clean before you start, from experience tracer stripes are very good at hiding in dirt and tho it takes time, money, flesh and blood You will never have to redo a properly done job blahblahblah.

The wires sprouting from under the headlamp are ridiculous! If I were to remove the loom and start from scratch it would all make sense to me - I have no problem at all in reading the diagram, but this mass of oddly coloured, bullet,soldered, twisted and generally bastardised mess is just driving me mad. That and the fact that I am working in a dingey cramped shed that is freezing cold.I would dearly love someone who really knows there stuff do it for me at a reasonable cost!

As for the rear wheel. It has the disc from the Convert on it, so that should be OK and just need the top hat spacer, surely. But the spacer throws it all out. The bearings were in in the wheel when I got it so I presume the internal spacer is too.

to find out if the spacer is in the wheel between the bearing drop a peice of stud rod through it and a couple of washers to cover the centres and tighten the nuts if it carried on turning the spacer is in , if it all goes tight the spacer is missing and its pulling the bearing centres together

You ought to be able to see the spacer by shining a torch through the hub centre.

I will have a look, but I can’t believe it won’t be.

Just a thought looking at the diag in manual the wheel spindle pushes onto the spacer …I cannot remember but you may have to swap the spindle?

My V1000 was org a convert and still has a convert bevel box, so having put cast wheels in then swapped back I had no difficulty BUT I do remember having bought the cast wheels I had to then buy the discs to get everything lined up. I know you can cobble spacers etc BUT I kept it simple by having the cast wheels+discs+spacers and spindles and kept then separate. That way the disc carriers etc all fitted and the swapover was literally the wheelscomplete with discs and associated spacers.

The 76 bikes had wire wheels OR cast. mine was org wire wheels. The cast ones I fitted were off a V1000 G5

Chris 750S has given you good advice on the wiring.Treat each circuit separately, identify each wire which you have dealt with and correlated to the wiring diagram by putting a label on it, or maybe some coloured wool, and things should then become slowly sorted.It’s like undoing knotted string, it will become easier with each piece you do. Don’t try to ‘see’ the whole lot - you don’t need to - neither do you need to fully understand the function of a circuit, you just need to get each wire going where it should. If you are really fazed by this, could you bring the bike up to Exeter?Normski2012-12-06 21:20:39

The V1000 Convert headlamp does look like spagetti, especially if another owner has added “stuff” .

However if you take your time and go through it methodically it should reveal itself If you do a search on swapping the switchgear I listed the Guzzi wires/colours at the 15 way/12 Way plug most go through the hole created by the headlamp only to go back out again.

The Multiblock connectors are ok as long as once you clean them and re do them you seal them with silicone.

It looks worse than it is as there are potentially 30 + wires in there if you inc all the blocks and the earths.

Sorry GB but a search for “swapping the switchgear” only brings us back here.


pinned but here y go there IS more on there tho

this is from my notes:
From my notes the Yam wiring is as follows:-
Horn= Pink
Earth = black
Right turn =Dark Green
Turn common = Brown/white
Left turn = Dark Brown
High beam = Yellow
Flash = red/yellow
Dip = light Green
Light common = Blue/Black

On My G V1000 the Guzzi wires are:
Horn= white/black
right turn=grey/red
turn comm=brown with a tag on it
Left turn=green /black
High beam=Greyor slate
Dip=Light green
light common=blue/black

I have a Triumph switch that is as follows

horn= Black with 2 grey trace

earth=Brown/black with 2 grey trace

right turn=light blue 2 grey trace

turn comm=grey 2slate trace

Left turn=orange

High beam=blue with slate tracex2 these must be joined as org had twin headlamps

Flash= Red/Black

Dip=white Grey

Comm Light =Blue white

i hope this helps

I have copied NW on this but I do NOT have the lights on off on the left it has been transposed to the right hand bars so those wires you will have to figure out there is a web site with alt switchgear wiring on it it may be carl allisons site but not sure if i find out any more i will let you know.

You can test functions by using a meter if you get the comm turn the left and right will be apparrent. you can do the same with main and dip and flash
The dodgy one is the horn as it will blow a fuse if you get it wrong. lol

guzzibear2012-12-07 12:31:08