Le Mans Brake Discs

Having put a few miles on my Lemon, my discs are getting worn. Eventually it will be time to replace all 3 discs. However, the rotors alone are £130 each.


£390 +P&P is outside my budget for 3 discs. (I have just got a new set of discs and pads for my car for less than £200!)

Fortunately I am currently working for a company with a lathe with a 320mm diameter chuck, a 3 Axis milling machine linked up to CAD / CAM. So making them is easy bit.

However the only material we use is EN8 and EN24T.
We also have some gray cast iron, however I am not sure of its diameter.

So my question to you… Does anyone know what material Guzzi discs are made from?


Alex

Not sure how you stand legally by making your own discs, if one broke and caused an accident involving 3rd party; brake component manufacturers have to be insured, also what about your own insurers if they found out you got ‘home made’ discs If memory serves my two new fronts cost £240 back in 2006 or thereabouts, and they are British made patterns from Motomecca. Only one batch ever made 'cause insurance was going to cost them too much to produce any more. So the fellah at Motomecca told me when I was down there to get 'em. I had the last but 1 pair left.

Gutsibits were doing them a year ago for considerably less than that.Try them.

All Bike Engineering make stainless discs for some Guzzi models, saves that lovely brown look after a night in the open.
Brian UK2013-06-10 17:41:20

I don’t know why guzzi brake discs or discs for any bike are so expensive!? I’ve just replaced the discs up front for my lemans at €150 each (€300) from Stein dinse in Germany. The rear is a whopping €160 so I wont be replacing that for a while!! I’ll just paint its centre and clean it up. After saying that they are smart looking and made from stainless. The carrier is an extra €105 for each disc if you aint got that!!! Mine were fine.

Motivlack2013-06-07 20:41:20

ps. Fair play if you can machine them yourself(and if they are legal)I’ll buy a rear off you(if they work!!) :slight_smile:

[QUOTE=iandunmore]

Gutsibits were doing them a year ago for considerably less than that.Try them.[/QUOTE]
I was wrong, £170 each! This was January 2006

How worn ? I was getting judder on the superb single front on my lemon, local engineer skimmed it for 30 quid, spot on. Or are the ridges in line or the discs very thin, in our experience the originals are the best, x

“The Bible” (or one of 'em) sez min thickness 5.8mm, max run-out 0.2mm. It also sez “it is very important for the disc to be perfectly clean without any rusting…” Only in Arizona…

The Org Cast discs last for ever mine have done well over 250,000 miles !!!

1 Get them skimmed
2 Check which pads you are using… guzzibear2013-06-07 20:54:42

Brian - Your link goes to 404.

However I would love Stainless discs…
The fact they go brown after 4 hours by the Sea annoys me.

The brakes are still working perfectly - with no judder. I put new pads in 6000 miles ago. But I know one day the discs are going to need replacing.

I have a rotary surface grinder at work, so could get them skimmed for free, but they would need the Lips machined off first.


But legality of it all is not something which I had considered!

In 2009 I assembled my own brake lines using some stainless steel braided hoses, refurbished my own master cylinders, filled them with new fluid, bled them.
removed the wheels, cleaned and repainted them, got new tires fitted, new wheel bearings, turned some stainless wheel spindles and then rebuilt the front of the bike.

Which is perfectly legal. I would therefore have not considered that making your own brake disc would be any greater cause for concern?

The cast discs give far less rain lag in the wet.That is the reason for them being cast iron.

Sorry, check it again,now fixed.http://www.allbikeengineering.co.uk/

The reason for cast discs is THEY work…and bud they WILL outlive you… so they go brown in rain…but THEY work.

The cast iron is very very hard so the pads wear not the discs.

after 38 yrs and well over 250,000 miles mine are no where near any wear limit… unless you get one smashed in a collision or some such leave them especially on a classic bike. by swapping them not ONLY do you spend ££££ better used elsewhere you actually destroy the classic value of your bike

You MAY create issues with fitment to wheels
It may also cause issues with insurers unless it is done or at least verified by an accredited engineer.

As for making your own discs … you must be joking in this World them there elves of safety would be snapping at your heels big time.

If you EVER had the slightest accident just wait for the claims and counterclaims they would tie it into knots for years.

Had a very good mate who had a minor accident 2 yrs ago on his chopper, the aggro he had proving all parts had been fitted correctly was un believable.

+1 on the wear resistance of the iron discs. Back in 86-87 I did despatch riding on my T3. Some in city traffic, a lot long distance, averaging 4,000 miles a month, for 18 months. Disc wear was never a problem.

So which pads work best (for stopping power rather than longevity) with these cast iron discs?

Ferodo FDB108 seems popular Going to start using these on advice from here Or FDB148 (slightly thinner than FDB108) Gutsibits have these

EBC double H’s ? Use these on Dato and me racebike, lots of feel…

[QUOTE=Motivlack]I don’t know why guzzi brake discs or discs for any bike are so expensive!? I’ve just replaced the discs up front for my lemans at €150 each (€300) from Stein dinse in Germany. The rear is a whopping €160 so I wont be replacing that for a while!! I’ll just paint its centre and clean it up. After saying that they are smart looking and made from stainless. The carrier is an extra €105 for each disc if you aint got that!!! Mine were fine.

[/QUOTE]did you remove the paint from the areas that the disk touches the carrier as any variation in paint thickness will cause the disk to run out

I use Ferodo ont he V1000/G5 …EBC are good too DO NOT use Brembo ones they are awful