hi martin ,glad your up and running 
I have had some family biz to sort out so bikes been on the backburner for a fortnight, now things are ok, im back in the garage tomorrow night, im sure the timing is good so as I said above ill go through one thing at a time and find the problem.I had the pleasure of riding the bike for a few months before I started trying to improve her, and it was a blast ,great bike ,well worth trying to get her close to perfect as I can , shes a keeper for sure kindest regards russ
We too have had trouble after fitting new condensors…the quality of parts supplied these days is questionable…even from reputable suppliers…
evening all, I think im getting somewhere, I thought I would change back to my old points which were working and had no change so of with the new condensers and on with the old and she started to fire both sides sounding like she used to.im quite sure I upset the timing when changing the points originaly so thanks to mike for getting me on the right track. Looks like multiple problems were brought on by my self changing out points and condensers for no good reason other than thinking I was doing good. I have reset static timing now the old points are in (thanks Mike) and have started to strobe the right side, the advance line is just above the hole itself at 3500rpm so I need that to come down a bit. would that be clockwise on distributor? or anti clockwise? I cant wait to get it done now, im a bit disappointed about the condensers or condenser a bit of a minefield these new bits. I had considered a dyna system but now its close to good I think the original system was good enough then why not now? but it might be less hassle to go dyna in the distant future. thoughts on the timing mark being high with strobe appreciated as were all comments to help me kind regards russ
Anticlockwise, it’s a bit retarded. Don’t go mad tho, a mm of perceived movement is probably enough.
These are no longer common parts on vehicles anymore, have become minority vintage specials so it would be easy for the quality to slip as cost savings are applied.
Thread hijack:
I’ve always set the idle like this and I have Newtronic electronic ignition. Doesn’t seem to have done any damage…
I’m very interested in this because I am soon to fire up an old engine with newly fitted Dyna electronic ignition and would rather not fry it. How else do you set the idle?Â
Initially audibly on throttle stops…then cables for balance ?
If I’m feeling pedantic I use vacuum gauges. Well for the initial set-up certainly, after that I make any further adjustments equally to both sides ~ for example, if lower throttle stops by half a turn, do it to both the same.
evening all, my latest biter sweet update, after setting the timing with a strobe and feeling pretty good about it I set about getting my tickover sorted while the engine was still warm. Tried to start the bike and all I got was a click, having done some research on using my multi meter I checked the battery first(12.6 V) which I understand is pretty good, im thinking solenoid but put my hand on the starter and it was mighty hot so I guess all the stoping and starting the engine over the last couple of months has taken its toll on a very old looking starter. I have gone crazy and ordered a new starter more money!(has anyone seen the film( The money pit ) AKA russells bike 
.Still she should be good for the year ahead
regards russ
Never give up Russ…where r u btw…
Blimey you are unlucky. 
Sure starter is goosed? Not just jammed?
hey mike, I think so, I tried to short it with screw driver across the terminals but no joy so I assumed shes dead. When I bought the bike I new she would need some work but she was a good runner with a clunky box, so Im now paying the price of owning this beauty…Hey Guy im down in sunny Cardiff, off to the rugby with the wife ,cant wait, Millenium Stadium/Rugby/Beer happy days
kind regards Russ
Lucky man Russ…Guy my husband doesnt do forums…tis Kate…enjoy the game…x
Don’t want to do anyone out of a sale but check your contacts for the starter and solenoid. On my V50 (which I think has the same bosch starter and solenoid recently I experienced a similar symptom which made me think battery, then starter solenoid and my neighbour who is an electrician and old bike restorer took it in hand and worked magic simply by separating solenoid from starter, cleaning and checking all connections and particularly earth and reassembling. The starter has never pinged over so quickly. I have been struggling with a slugging turnover for years. You can check the starter motor independently by contacting the motor directly, Also check the relay. I don’t really know what I am talking about but just had similar issues which are now sorted. All the bestÂ
martin
Also starter motors have brushes, which wear out eventually.
update, russell recieved his (£57) starter motor off EBAY from germany via china i suspect, but despite its smaller size it turned 950cc with ease,she starts much quicker, im not sure how long it will last but for the time being(Abargin).I have been on a few run outs and the combination of rebuilt top end and shimming the gearbox makes the bike so much nicer to ride, smooth power and not a single false nuetral, happy days. Thanks to everyone who helped sort it, its good to have access to years of experience. kindest regards russ
Result !
thanks Kate  regards russ
I’m a bit late to the party here but what plugs are fitted?
If NGKs I suggest that you take them out and throw them as far away as you can .
My Cali played silly buggers on a brand new set of NGKs until I put the old Champions back in.
Apparently there was a bunch of counterfeit NGKs causing the issues
hey tris, (ngk) fitted, put 150 miles on her on saturday up through mid-wales, what a blast, good roads great views, i must have some of the good plugs   kindest fraternal greetings  russ