Loop Frame exhaust.

The exhaust header pipe to cylinder head castellated nut. Is there anything that can prevent the seizing of this to the head. I am renewing mine and have read some horror stories, but no fixes.

If it helps, the trick on the R-series Bee-Ems which have screw on finned collars, is to coat the threads with copper-slip. And of course the proper tool to turn them when it’s time to undo them.


These can be a problem either seizing in the head or working loose. I use the version with a lock ring and copper-slip the threads to the head.

Thanks. I have bought the locking ring ones, so that’s a good start. Does the copper slip still work with the heat? Is it just a case of a copper layer between the steel?

Yes, the solvent burns away but a layer of copper is left behind.Â

OK cheers, I was just a tad worried the grease would form a glue!

I should have said, the grease and oils burn away, leaving soft copper behind.

Endorse these comments; mine came apart with no problems 6 years after copperslip application. I like the c-spanner friendly rings! Â Eldo going to NBS for “investigative surgery” in January - I’m sure Nigel has the proper tools!

I bought some stainless pipes from Armour, which arrived today. They are very nice, but the wrong shape and the locking rings won’t go round the bends - bugger!
A phone call tomorrow, I think, they close for a long weekend!