Nasty noise. - G5

I took my newly completed G5 project out for an early run this morning, hoping to put in some miles to get the feel, and check it out, before the heat of the day built up.
Unfortunately, I only got a few miles when the charge light came on. Just as I was thinking of turning for home to investigate, there was this horrid sound. An intermittent, loud grating noise. A gear not quite engaged? No, not that.
I pulled over into the shade and thought. Thinking of my charge light, I wondered if my lovely new Enduralast alternator had come loose. Reaching for the tool roll, I found I’d left it in the garage! 4 Allen screws and I could check the alternator, but I could not.
So I rode cautiously home. The noise reoccurred now and then. Really horrid, but everything else was running Ok.
I began to wonder, could the Bosch starter be trying to engage with the flywheel while in motion?
I got home Ok. And checked the alternator. All firmly in place and no signs of harm.
I’m letting it cool before looking further.
Obviously the charging light coming on could be a separate issue, but I am wondering if it is a symptom of whatever fault it could be that may be affecting the starter.

might need to flash the alternator ,just get a length of wire and touch it to the terminal with the blue wire on the alternator direct from the battery, ONLY a couple of seconds,had to do this on my G5 no problems since

Thanks. I’m a bit shy of trying that, as its not a Bosch alternator, but an aftermarket Enduralast. I suppose an alternator is an alternator though.
the warning light was functioning Ok last night and when I set out today was running Ok last

I’d be finding the source of the noise before doing anything else. Some slow turning of the engine and watching and listening, you’ll need another pair of hands ideally.Once you’ve got that sorted then look at the charging system.Good luck,Regards,John

If the charge light had gone out at any time then it shouldn’t need flashing.An intermitant fault is always difficult to find but could be no more than a glass ratting in your mirror.Why did you go away from Bosch?

Definitely not just a mirror rattling, or any other rev related vibe.
This is a deep, cog grating, noise. Not gearbox, as it seems to occur in any gear and its not obviously at any particular revs.
It just chimes in for a few moments when riding along. Goes quiet for a bit and then, “ooch! there it goes again!”
A fellow member, Dave, came around last night to assist with bleeding the brakes. As he lives nearby, I’ll ask if he can be on hand to help check, the noise, and the charging light.

I went for the brushless Enduralast, partly because the bike, originally a rusty old '81 Spada, with ruinous electrics, needed a new alternator and the Enduralast being available, providing oodles of Watts was rather attractive. Up to 400W, but more importantly supplying 280W at lower revs which the Bosch doesn’t do. So that it can supply, intercom, recharging of various things, supplying heated grips & jacket, spotlights etc. without having to worry about keeping the revs up. Its a nice bit of kit complete with solid state voltage regulator etc.
It may not be strictly necessary, but I remember having to replace Bosch rotors & stators on old Tonti Guzzis in the past, so I thought I’d give it a go.

flashig the altnator is only for the bosch type on with widing on the rotor and brush gear it puts a bit of residule magnetism in the rotor to start the process endedurolast ones are permanant magnet rotors

Thanks for that. I didn’t want to rush into trying that. I can get the charging checked. If the lights on, but it is charging, its a pain, but one I can live with if I can’t fix it.
The noise is the bigger worry.
I’ve just taken the starter motor off. But the starter gear shows no damage, and the ring gear on the fly wheel has wear, but then they usually do. More significantly I feel, is that there was no metallic debris discernible. I have had the gearbox and flywheel off and thoroughly cleaned inside, so I reckon any metal fragments would show. So still inconclusive.

always put the stator bolts in with loctite they do work loose and it stuffs the rotor and stator . I had this 20+ yrs ago waited 6 hours at the side of the A1 in the rain for the RAC.

For grinding noises check

  1. wheel bearings and the bearing carrier/holder in back wheel Left hand side if it breaks down intermittent grinding 'till it fails
  2. UJ
  3. rotor -stator if the stator came loose the rotor touching it makes a hell of a row
  4. Getting more difficult here the timing chain if for any reason the tensioner has failed/worn/broken it will make a hell of a row as well

These are all things that HAVE happened at one time over the 20+ yrs of V1000 ownership , you may have checked some of these alreadyguzzibear2013-07-18 11:53:32

and look for silly things as especially as its the season of lets sling the chippings everywhere
piece of stone chipping in a brake caliper sounds terrible (I Know from experiance)
mudgaurds not fully aligned the tyre rubs on them at speed etc

charging just try a multimeter across the battery should at 2000 revs be up to 14 volts no more than 14.5 at any revs

Have you put in a new timing chain? When I did that to my G5 I had years ago it made some 'orrible noise for a while until it bedded in.

A favourite for an intermittent grating noise is the UJ support bearing rotating in its’ housing, the vibes are usually felt through the footrests.G.

Right, I’ve had it checked and sadly its not charging. It was last night, but isn’t now.
There is no timing chain, it has steel, straight cut, timing gears. They do make a noise but a different sort.
U/J, U/J bearing. These are both new, newly installed, with Loctight etc. I wouldn’t expect that to come loose in just 40 miles since the rebuild.
I need to sort the charging problem before doing more test rides.
I still think the noise is from the engine/gearbox area, but it just may be a clatter from something that’s loose externally.
Once again, thanks for your suggestions.
Main problem the garage is now like an oven!

This is so embarrassing!
Earlier I posted that the alternator was “firmly in place” Should have gone to Specsavers!
The rotor has come loose!
I do have the minor satisfaction that this was the first possible cause that I suspected when the noise occurred, and it probably accounts for the lack of charging as well.
Problem now is that the inside taper on the rotor has been roughed up. I have emailed the supplier of Enduralast Alternators in the States, asking his advice, and if he doesn’t recommend fitting the damaged one, how quick can he get one to me.
10 days from now, I need to be setting off for a 25 day trip around Europe, with my godson on the pillion, and as you can imagine I do not want to disappoint him.
Enduralast, or Bosch, a taper is a taper. If it was a Bosch alternator, would you try refitting it? Would Loctite help? Which grade to use? so that when necessary, the rotor can be removed again.

Sorry to hijack your thread a bit g5er, but I have a question for Duffo

Can the grating/grinding of the UJ bearing be triggered by applying the back brake?

I had a strange noise at the end of the National road rally which only happened when I used the brake pedal. I checked the brakes and came to the conclusion I must have had a stone in a calliper - but now I’m beginning to wonder

Tristris2013-07-18 19:25:59

gutsi bits sell new and reconditioned rotors it,s a stock item


If they have one in stock e-mail me FedEx is 2 DAYS from the USA and I can let you have a discount site that gives 60-70% discount on rates

Hi Tris, apart from muck in the caliper, (worth checking so as not to scour the disc), graunching when using the rear (linked?) brakes can be U/J or its’ bearing or rear wheel bearings, if you can feel the vibration through the footrests a back end inspection (nothing personal) is recommended.Cheers, Gerry.

I would remove the windings and get them safe out the way
look at the tapered bore and if bady scored remove the scoring with bit of emery coth etc, do the same with the shaft making sure no grit gets inside the seal.
give it a wipe wit a cleaning rag with bit of thinners on it to remove grease etc
put the rotor on the shaft and give it a light tap on the end with soft face mallet etc if the tapers are good enough it should stick on the shaft if not you can lightly coat inside with very fine lapping paste and gently lap the 2 faces together (Much like valve grinding)
if you realy want to be safe a coating of Loctite retainer (638) but remember at some point you might want to remove it basically any bearing fit will be sufficient if its a reasonable fit
one thing to check is has the rotor bent over any of the stator winding laminations if so it could of chopped the actual copper windings.

^ Good plan! Today I just happened to be looking at my own, checking the combined resistance of brushes and rotor, specifically if the slip rings need cleaning especially, which they didn’t actually, and just BTW made sure all the fixing screws were tight. Paranoid, moi…
Mike H2013-07-19 16:39:56