New set of carburettors

Does anyone know where I can get nice new carbs for my 850-T3 Cali made in 1980.
It seems the ones I bought on the Internet are rubbish and I need to replace them.
I believe square bodies are no longer made and that I need to change to round-bodied.

Eurocarb Ltd.

Some round ones from a T5 work well and you can get spares for them they make a fair bit of difference as well

I have a set of square bodied that I took off my Spada if your interested

Top 2 items, Convert, T3, T4, 1000 SP, Cali 2&Cat=FUA&CatName=Fuel and Carburettors&spPage=4#topbar

I’m curious to know why the carbs you have bought have been condemned. The bodies are just too worn?

Can you elaborate a bit on the difference they make please? economy? performance?
I did size up a pair of round carbs, from a small block 750, I think it was,on Pete Morcombe’s stall at a show and their rubber sleeves were a good sliding fit on T3 manifold stubs, didn’t take this idea any further then, but may one day. I’m out to the shed now to dig out Guzziology to see what carbs a T5 uses!
Normski2012-12-03 18:18:03

Nick Wallace of Moto Euro has repaired my crankshaft oil leak and tried to set up the tune of the bike. Nick says my square body carbs are totally shot and are preventing getting the bike to slow-run properly and come down to a steady idle after revving.
He recommended buying a proper brand new pair of round-bodies, not more second hand stuff.

The problem with second hand items like carbs, you never know if they are better or worse than the ones you want to replace - until it’s too late.Unfortunately many parts for the square carbs are now as common as hen’s teeth.

But which part is shot? The slides? Or the bodies themselves? Or the needles? Of course a new pair of carbs is always a good solution, but costly. The VHB 30mm square carbs on my S3 are the originals as far as I know, but the bike still ticks over ok. Might be worth checking the rubber seals and needles?

I’ve got a set of VHB 30 carbs here which I would guarantee to be in good order and tuneable because the bodies and slides are barely worn. The part I wouldn’t guarantee is the needles and needle jets because they are fast wearing part, but they are available new and not too expensive.

The bike idles poorly when cold and I have to blip the throttle to keep it going. When it is warm it races at idle (about 3000rpm) and then fades down until it needs another blip. When it stops it sometimes back-fires.