Okay . i know its been posted before but i cant seem to find it. can someone talk me through the wiring mod req’d to cure the “click no crank” issue . specific to my bike please, a 2012 sport 1200 . thank you.
It is here http://www.motoguzziclub.co.uk/phpbbforum/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=18404 the link Jim has kindly provided requires me to have permission that I apparently don’t have
Thanks, both of you. Now, story so far…battery showing 12.1v on dash of bike when not running, getting click, not starting, so, reluctant to cut wires i get my mod with inline fuse and jam it in block connector next to yellow wire at solenoid, bike starts, shows a steady 14.1v on dash. Turn engine off, back to 12.1v.
Decide to bite the bullet and get a new battery as i suspect mine is original, 4 years old +however long bike was sitting in showroom. So new battery in, showing 12.7v on dash and… click! so plugs in the mod and she starts, shows 13.9/14.0/14.1 on dash when running.
Bit perplexed that a new battery still won’t start bike, done the mod anyway,reluctantly, but not happy that this needs to be done, shouldn’t have to go cutting into wires, so what’s changed? why does it start no bother for 4 years then suddenly won’t?
Answers on a postcard please…
Corroded earth points are always a good place to start looking.
Too many connectors and switches between battery and starter, that is what the modification is for, to reduce these to a minimum. OK while it’s all new, but when they start to oxidise the problems start.
Had a lot of grief with my Breva 1100 not starting, basically the ECU will not start the bike if registered voltage is less than 11.7 V, battery reading 12.8V, dash showing 11.4V, result misery. The problem turned out to be slight corrosion on the board in the dash due to condensation. Replaced dash inners with a S/H unit, result happiness.
Cheers, Gerry.
Didn’t know that, or if I did have forgotten, no that wouldn’t help at all! Quite feasible for dashboard supply to lose a bit of Volts due to bad connection, also heard of it happening to cars. The dash Voltmeter if you got one can be a useful indicator of that.
I get it sometimes (but not often) on my Stelvio but I suspect it is different, press the starter and there is just a click. Put the bike in first gear and rock it forwards and back a few times. Into neutral and it usually starts ok. I have bought an Optimate 4 and that seems to keep the battery in good charge.
I’ve had it happen a few times on my 2v 1200 sport (usually after long periods of lack of use) ; as Chris said I put it into 1st ,a little rock & it then fires up. It doesn’t bother me as I’ve experienced it a lot with other make bikes. Forgot to say my bike is always on charge with an Optimate.
Now the Stelvio is suffering from “click no start” and rocking it in gear is not doing the trick. I will check connectors and if that doesn’t work try the mod.
Battery -ve terminal showing signs of corrosion, cleaned it all up now problem has gone. 