Oil Leak..? All Big Block

Got home today after a long blast on the motorway, and me lovely Thunderbird 5 has sprung a leak…

I parked it on the side stand, while I opened the fettling shed doors, and, drip drip drip it went. SO, time for me fettling irons to come out, seems to me to be leaking from the Alternator, took this…



Checked the oil level and it’s spot on, so I think it’s only just happened, it’s never done that before mister…

So what does the panal think…? An easy fix, or just keep topping the oil up when needed…? It was a lovely ride as well, bike was running like a Swiss watch. BUGGER… guzzibear2014-03-04 18:41:54

Behind altenator is the front oil seal, looks like it needs replacing, fairly easy to do Altenator out IF you have not done that before get the correct hardened steel tool to get the rotor out DO NOT use anything in softer steel.

Chock up sump
take out front engine bolt ant then undo the front cover

I did mine earlier this year allow 3-3 hrs while you have the front cover off give it a clean and either paint it or use some sort of seal to keep it from corrosion

Brilliant, thanks for that, YES I have indeed taken the Alternator out, MANY many times…

I’ll get me fettling irons warm, and set too…

Right above the alternator on top of the crankcase is the centre banjo union for the 2 oil feed hoses to the cyl. heads, check this is not leaking, as it’s under pressure from the pump. Or could be a split hose or loose hose clamp. Otherwise yes most likely timing cover oil seal as said. The fact it’s dripping means quite a bit coming out so makes me wonder if it’s under pressure so oil feed… (?) EDIT: can’t see any oil at top of pix though but still worth bearing in mind.
Mike H2014-03-04 19:43:40

There was only 3 drips of oil, after me ride home from work, yesterday AND today, I think it’s just dribbling out, building up somewhere, then dripping. But I’ll check them pipes thanks…

Ordered up me seal and gasket, I want to do a bit of a trip this Friday, and as Monday is me off day, if the bits show up by then. I’ll be a fettling, ready for the commute to the Hell Hole Tuesday…

Wish me luck lads, that big engine holding bolt hasn’t be out of the bike since it was new, 28yrs ago. Wonder what me chances are of it simply sliding out all dead easy like…

Hey Shaun. On TB5 are your header pipes in the way of the front engine bolt ? If so a couple of exhaust gaskets may be needed.

theone&onlymin
x

Min, YES they are… Bugger, I KNEW there be something I’d be needing, and them pipes have been in place since the bike was new, so that little fettling job is going to take me a life time now…

Nooo it is not a major job the oil in the front should have loosed off the front bolt remember to chock under the sump be careful if you have to apply an’ammer as the threads can get damaged,

Then take off the altenator you will see the seal and easily tell if it is leaking as there will be oil behind the stator

Then undo the front bolt I usually turn the head of the bolt so it helps come thro.

Once that is out undo the allen bolts or whatever, good idea to replace those with s/s allen headed bolts and washers I always use coppergrease when putting them back

Worth taking the time to clean up the front cover and protect it.

I always have 2 spare zorst gaskets in the shed so order 4 of them it makes sense.

Looking at your pic I am 99% sure it is the front seal as there is oil beloew the alt and the top of the cover is bone dry IF it is the oil pipes that would be showing oil.

This whole episode should take no more than 3-4 hrs as long as the front bolt comes out, before taking the zorsts off loose the nut and see if the bolt head turns if so should be all good if not soak it in WD40 over night or plusgas if you have it…

If you leave it weeping for a wee while it will ease off your front bolt hopefully. I am at Littlebrook Power Station tomorrow finishing about 4 if you need your morals supported.
Love and kisses
theone&onlymin
x

No I see what he means, cover off means bolt out means downpipes off. As well as alternator off. = more involved than it first appeared.

What I MEAN is…

Bottom of the fairing off, both sides, then it’s a case of trying to get the header pipe nuts undone, after they’ve been sat there on the studs for 28yrs. And I just know them studs will snap, and that’ll mean getting the remaining bits out, and that’ll mean, getting the barrels off. Taking them to me engineer and forking out to get that sorted, all the while the Sun is shining and I’ve missed all the good riding weather. I’ll then get the bike sorted weeks and weeks after the 3hr job, and that’s just the time the monsoon season starts again…

I’ve had all these, “Oh it’s a simple xhrs job” before, with me BSA’s, was just HOPING that me Guzzi would be different that’s all, Oh well here we go AGAIN…

Although having said ALL that, the jobs I’ve done on Thunderbird 5 have been dead easy, so only time will tell…

Thanks for the great advice lads, and the offer of help Min lad, see ya down the Cock when next we meet…

And when you finally get your timing chest cover off you’ll no doubt find the timing chain will need a new upgraded tensioner… Worth doing while you’re in there.


Bikeralw2014-03-06 08:12:55

What was the Flanders and Swann song?'Twas on a Monday morning the gasman came to call?
Brian UK2014-03-06 09:26:48

not sure if i missed something but as far as i know there is no need to remove the timing cover to replace the seal just remove the alternator pop out the seal as it rins on the alternator rotor so will be room to get a scredriver in and just tap new one in place and refit alternator after cleaning rubbing surface etc

Ii IS possible to do that BUT if this has not been off for all those years you can BET the tensioner will need at LEAST adjusting at worst replacing

Or even a new chain… Just putting up with the leak is looking more and more attractive Seriously if you want to take the exhaust pipes off spray everything first in plenty of freeing agent (e.g. plus-gas) type stuff and leave to soak say overnight. The studs are screwed into the heads and so far I’ve found that if nuts are stuck on, the studs unscrew instead, if so then just get new studs as well as nuts etc. HTH

The bike has only done 10,000 miles so the chain should be god for another 20 before needing a change, but fitting a spring tensioner is a good idea. What year did they fit the spring tensioner as standard? as this is a fairly modern bike.

Sounds like Keith is going to get his hands dirty again!

have a spring tensioner in the spares box ready

WHAT… You mean to tell me I’ve got all this stuff coming, and all I needed is a screw driver and a new seal…

YES, and double YES, this machine has only done 15,000 miles since it left Italy in a crate, I could lay a months wages the chain, or anything associated with it, hasn’t worn, or needs replacing. OK I know the bike is a tad rusty here and there, and it looks really grubby in places, BUT, and you’ll notice that’s a big but. Inside it’s as clean as the day it was made, and NOTHING like nothing here dudes, is worn…

Oh well, it’s only money, just a few beers that’s all, not too worry, it’ll all turn out just fine, you see. And best of all, Keith said he’ll show up, and it’s always good to see that lad, it usually ends with a Burger…

I would go for the screwdriver and new seal method first. At least if you bu99er it up you have only wasted 1 oil seal and you can still go for the “timing case off” method.Yours sincerely Mr Cheapskate(with bike in shed that is waiting for an oil pipe to get it running, but hasn’t been touched for 18 months)