Options for Ignition Mounting -V50

I am going to be replacing the original V50 clocks on my MK2 for an Acewell speedo which does not cater for the ignition barrel.Any suggestions of alternative mounting points on the bike that take little or no fabrication or a suitable holder for it that can be mounted somewhere? thanks

The MOT regulation says you must have a means of stopping the engine on the handlebars. A kill switch is not mandatory. If you relocate the ignition switch you must have a kill switch on the handlebars.

If it were me, I would probably put the ignition switch on the left hand side panel.

I’m doing the same on my T3 using an Acewell 3972. I’m thinking of using a simple flat aluminium braket mounted on the orignal mounting brackets on the fork yolk tops and then bolting the Acewell bracket to that. Luckily the T3 has a bracket for the frame mounted ignition switch. At a push you could make a similar bracket with a suitable hole for the ignition switch and a Japanese style rubber boot over the terminals. Looking at photos it looks like the V50 uses a similar mount to the T3 for the original speedo unit.The best way is to get some stiff cardboard and try various ideas till you hit the simplest solution that satifies your criteria.

Thanks for the responses. Not sure if mounting on the side panel is the easiest option of the two but probably the most elegant…I think that is the likely place for it. Brilliant idea, thanks!

Take a look at the dash panel on a V11 sport/Le mans it has the idiot lights and the 'oles for instruments. OR make one from alloy sheet, or measure and ask someone to make it for you Me I would be asking ExSmokingBiker (Ray) a real good engineer and all round helpful bloke

Wherever you remount the switch, make sure the terminals on the back are not accessible. Lost a bike because of that once.

Not thought about the theft aspect. I guess the side panel can be as easily clipped off as it can be clipped on therefore exposing the terminals…hmmm…I shall have a look at the v11 dash…cheers.

Doubt it would fit BUT should give you an idea, maybe take a look here

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=moto-guzzi+V11+lemans+dash&id=B48EFF3DA31BC3B7B2E7EE396D32D2704B00E575&FORM=IQFRBA

I think the side panel would be the best position however in order to get the ignition wires to reach that part of the bike it looks like I will have to take some insulation off the loom…which worries me slightly as I don’t know what is under the insulation and shudder to think that I might have to split the loom to do this. Might take a brave pill and give it a go though!

In places where you cannot use heatshrink I think that Self Amalgamating waterproof tape is excellent and unlike PVC insulating tape does not come loose over time.

Come by a variety of names, usually get mine at Maplin.

Maplinlawries2014-01-18 06:59:20

Thanks Lawrie.

Self amalgamating tape was used by The Post Office telephones to insulate underground joints when opened and THEY lay in water and underground. It IS very very good BUT a total BU**ER to get back into.

The trick is to wrap the SA tape with 50% overlap then go the opposite way with a PVC insulating tape as a top layer. Done correctly it looks clean and gives a watertight professional finish.

As an aside the wires to the ignition may go UP the loom to the ign from the side panel SO depending what has been used you may be able to cut off the terminal and pull the individual wires back through the loom.

Something I have done when replaceing a few wires.

I cut the tag stripped the end of the old wire after finding it at the other end and TESTING it.

Then a bit of shrink wrap and new wire, strip new wire.

Solder the two ends keeping the joint clean and tight then add shrink wrap and I have pulled it through as the old wire is pulled out.

Many older vehicle looms are covered in pvc tube and not real tight, The woven outer looms are the most difficult many shrink wrap pvc after a few years is not that tight.