I hestitate to post this as it may have become common practice over the years.Back in the '80s when I had a T3 and my brother in law had a T4 we enjoyed the easy to detach rear wheel, but found it not so easy to remove. The near side silencer had to come off, and any pannier frame and even then, it needed either a chunk of wood under the centre stand, or getting the bike on the kerb with the wheel overhanging the gutter to get the wheel out.I remember how we envied the V7 Sport with its hinged rear mudguard section.It was only today, ressembling my Spada, converted to G5 trim, that I realised how easily the whole stainless steel rear mudguard detatches. 2 M6 screws under the seat, 2 M8 nuts on the bolts at the end of the frame rails, and some easy to detatch electrical connection to the tail light, and off comes the guard, tail light and number plate still attached, leaving ample access to remove the wheel.I will be amazed if this does not draw a response from you guys who’ve continued with these bikes since those days, of "O yeah! We’ve all been doing it that way for ages"But then again there may be others like me, who’ve never thought of it before.The project is going back together well. Back on its wheels, Brakes to fill with fluid and bleed, and a new set of wiring to fit. That and a few other details and hopefully I’ll have it Mot’d in time for a run down to the West Country in a fortnight’s time. Fingers crossed.
yes we’ve have all been down that road, after owning my T3 since '79 I have tried all the routes re removing the rear wheel, the lump of wood etc is the way I used for years but sometimes I remove the final drive box as that then gives you chance to clean up and check over the final drive unit, with the final drive removed the wheel comes out easy. yes it is a time consuming method but as with anything in life the more you do it the easier and quicker it gets,
I still use the lean it over method myself, when there are 2 of you or a big block of wood if in the garage on my own. Still need to remove the left silencer to get the spindle out.
big block of wood , an assistant and lean over method is safest bet.
My silencers have a cut out so i can get the spindle out, but at she’s and early t5 with 16" wheels i have to lift it up about 4" with wood under the main stand to get the rear wheel out
Well, if you have the un-upswept T3 type silencer there’s a notch in the top of the silencer to allow the wheel spindle to come out without removing the silencer.Further experimentation this morning revealed that the mudguard dosn’t have to come right out!Just undo the 2 M6 screws under the seat, just loosen the M8 bolts at the tail of the frame and the mudguard pivots, allowing easy wheel removal, without even disconnecting the tail light! It is a beautiful piece of design!Maybe Toti himself, or one of his minions thought it up and nobody thought to descibe the proceedure in the hand book.I discovered this as I fitted the dratted Hepco & Becker pannier frame. (Much bashing of brackets, and elongating of holes and its on. H&P eventually admitted the fault, but claimed as there was so little call for this set anymore it wasn’t worth doing anything about it.)The mudguard will still tilt enough, with the tail light clearing the rear rack, its just the cross bar between the panner frames, behind the number plate that needs to be unbolted. If I can devise some captive nuts, that will mean just six M6 Allen screws to allow easy rear wheel removal, even with the pannier frames still in place.
If you’ve got a good mate could lay the bike over until it can be pulled out, if not I resort to taking the rear mudguard off. Seems a bit extreme? Well in the very old days many bikes had hinge-up rear mudguard sections for exactly this purpose. Taking the mudguard off is not that much hassle really, only 4 bolts.
Usual home job involved parking on main stand on the pavement kerb and getting wheel out before being run over by local traffic, now use handy bit of railway sleeper.G.
Jeez i do the V1000 in under 10 mins at home pop 2 blocks under centre stand undo the brake caliper, the pinch bolt and pop the spindle out JD
Doing it at home, as you say is no problem. I’m just remembering the roadside occasions when an obliging bit of kurb wasn’t to hand, and no helpful other body either.Since fitting the seat this afternoon I have realised that it would get in the way of tilting the mudguard.
me xpa needs a shock off also ,great fun
Side of the road ? With a loaded V1000? THAT’S what the AA card is for!