Refitting Breva rear bevel box

This is a new thread following on from my earlier tyres post. Need some pointers please on refitting the rear bevel drive.

I’ve got here because I opted for the Avons, ordered a pair from my local bike shop and rode the Breva around to get them fitted - for the extra £15 it wasn’t worth me busting my whatsits trying to get both wheels off with only a side stand. Half an hour into my wait, the mechanic appears and says there’s a problem with the back wheel - he can’t get it out. He says the cush drive is seized - apparently a common problem? He was trying to pull the drive splines out of the hub! The rear shock was still fitted and there just wasn’t enough room to wiggle the wheel out so I said do the front wheel as that’s definitely needed and I’ll have a go at the back one myself.

So back home in the garage, I managed to get a paddock stand to fit under the drive box and swinging arm, and got the rear wheel out - removing the exhaust and rear shock first this time. Back to the shop with the loose wheel for them to fit the tyre, back home and then the fun started.

I just couldn’t get the wheel back in, no matter what I tried and by now the rim was starting to get scuffed, so the only thing I could see to get the wheel back in was to take the drive off. I fitted some wooden blocks under the centre stand mounting and the bike is pretty secure, removed the paddock stand and off came the drive, surprisingly easily.

And now my problem. How do I get the drive pinions back in? Every time I get the first sleeved gear in, the spring pressure just pokes it out before I can get the hub back onto it. It seems to be incredibly hard to try and juggle the heavy hub with one hand and try to keep the pinion in with the other. Is there a knack to this?

Looks like I’ve found the knack. Trying to put the pinion in on its own was useless as it just popped out, so just by chance I tried the whole hub. Everything greased up, and it’s a bit heavy but jiggling it about a bit and rotating the cush drive splines to engage the pinions got it on nice and square as the weight of the hub actually helped get it into the shaft drive. I was cursing this morning but once you know how…

Just a tip for next time - remove the exhaust, shock and loosen but don’t remove the rear drive box. You can them move it outwards at an angle to provide more space to remove/refit the wheel. If it’s been assembled correctly in the first place, the little spring inside the splined cylinder towards the front should remain in place during the operation and you won’t need to fiddle.

Jon

LET THE TYRE DOWN FIRST !!
then it slips in a lot easier

Thanks for all the tips.
Yes, I let the tyre down fully but it was still no good. It was actually a lot easier doing it with the bevel drive out, though I will try it just loose next time, which hopefully won’t be for 7,000 miles or so!
I can’t remember my Monza being anywhere near as hard as this to change the wheel.

Don’t believe a Monza had a 130 profile.

Although I have the benefit of a Centre Stand I have never had to take the Drive Box to get the rear wheel out. It is a fiddle but once the left hand silencer, suspension unit and the caliper are out of the way I can usually manage it without having to deflate the tyre and that’s with both a BT45 and Dunlop Streetsmart.