Thanks all, I will await the arrival of my loom and see what I have bought. Laying it all out on a board sounds like a good idea.The loom on the bike seems to have grillions of earth wires, I can’t believe they are all original!A laminated wiring diagram also is a good idea - mucky fingers proof - mine are always mucky as I don’t like wearing latex gloves.With the general consensus being that it isn’t too brain taxing, I might well have a go. Especially as I can do it while the original is still in place.Is it easy to remove/replace the loom?
I have just replaced the main loom on my 850 T3 Cali with a new one from Stein Dinse. I was petrified but the old loom was so bad there was not much choice. Ferret quoted me " a four figure sum" that I could not swallow.
Anyway, slowly and patiently I worked my way through it front to back and it all works fine. It cost 79€ and is a nice piece of work with all the wires correct colours.
Blimey, that’s cheap!
Is that a full harness?
I hope so as i have a Lemans mk1 to recommision the wiring on it got to collect it Saturday
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Is it easy to remove/replace the loom?
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It is not a full loom but is the main one. It starts at the big plug on the headlight shell and goes back to the fuse box. It has the spurs for the front and rear brake pressure switches, oil pressure switch, neutral indicator switch, starter solenoid, rear brake light, brake reservoir and turn indicators. It does not do inside the headlight, or handlebar controls. It does not do the charging circuit.
All the best
I’ve had a good look at these now and although they are very good they do not print well at A3. The problem is that text on the diagram itself is very small, also the two colour wires are shown in very small dashes of alternate colours.
I have been producing my own for over 25 years, originally blown up on a photo copier and coloured in (tipex and biro to make double lines for white and yello wires) and more recently on my computer using a CAD program. This old tractor site is fantastic for the information it holds but realy if I was relying on an A3 copy of one of their wiring diagrams I would also want to see it blown up on my computer to check the text on the diagram and the two coloured wires.
I have sent a few copies to jmee54 as well as a copy of my 850T diagram that I have drawn myself, it may help as a Convert of his vintage will have the basic wiring layout of a 1974/5 850T but is a lot easier to read.Chris750s2012-10-10 09:39:04
The loom on the bike seems to have grillions of earth wires, I can’t believe they are all original!
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There are a fair few Earths on the Convert… A group around the rear light, some near the battery box and a fairly large group of earth’s under the front of the tank near headstock right hand side (as sat on the bike) and others in the Headlamp that go to a spade just inside the rim.
These are the ones I have found over the years. To be honest extra earth wires are no bad thing as the “earth return” can be compromised by anti vibration mounting.
GB is right. You cannot in reason have too many earth returns.
Ok, plenty earths make light work!Now, next quandry. Switch gear. I have buzzed Reboot and they can do later Guzzi switches at £35 a side.I can get Jap switches for £20 - £30 a side off ebay.Which are the best? Any ideas, as cost is a factor. Especially as my heating tank has expired!
Jap.
Jap, they will last longer! You can always change them later if you have an urge for originality.
Jmee
The exact match for the V11 switchgear and will fit straight on easily ie will fit by the tomaselli throttle is Honda Firestorm
That said I have in the past used Yamaha R1 on the right …cos I like the lights on/off that side and it is a thin switch and Triumph on the left
this is from my notes:
From my notes the Yam wiring is as follows:-
Horn= Pink
Earth = black
Right turn =Dark Green
Turn common = Brown/white
Left turn = Dark Brown
High beam = Yellow
Flash = red/yellow
Dip = light Green
Light common = Blue/Black
On My G V1000 the Guzzi wires are:
Horn= white/black
earth=blk
right turn=grey/red
turn comm=brown with a tag on it
Left turn=green /black
High beam=Greyor slate
flash=grey/black
Dip=Light green
light common=blue/black
I have a Triumph switch that is as follows
horn= Black with 2 grey trace
earth=Brown/black with 2 grey trace
right turn=light blue 2 grey trace
turn comm=grey 2slate trace
Left turn=orange
High beam=blue with slate tracex2 these must be joined as org had twin headlamps
Flash= Red/Black
Dip=white Grey
Comm Light =Blue white
i hope this helps
Ken
I have copied NW on this but I do NOT have the lights on off on the left it has been transposed to the right hand bars so those wires you will have to figure out there is a web site with alt switchgear wiring on it it may be carl allisons site but not sure if i find out any more i will let you know.
You can test functions by using a meter if you get the comm turn the left and right will be apparrent. you can do the same with main and dip and flash
The dodgy one is the horn as it will blow a fuse if you get it wrong. lol
IF you get a set for the left hand side that have come off any bike that has twin headlights that utilise only 1 for dip there IS a wee link wire inside the switch you need to cut and take out.
Most of the switches when you get them in half you CAN see where the wires go to. reversing the indicators is one minor problem but what I did was twist the wires together with the ones in the loom to “prove” the cct than undo, pop heatshrink along the insulation then solder them together apply heat from hairdryer to heatshrink and job done IF you stagger the joints to the main loom having slid a larger dia heatshrink over the loom first whan you slide it back and heat it you cannot see where they join.
the spada has Kawasaki think they were brand new ZR6 they came from a lad that buys two bikes a year brand new and breaks them the pair were £82 for left and right
Japanese it is then, just bought some Kawasaki ones that match the layout of the ones on the bike.
the fact that the modern guzzis use japanese switchgear tells you something
its far better quality than the old stuff
you can keep the old stuff in case you sell it and a nutter wants it all origional
or sell it on ebay to the origionality nutters
where abouts in this wide world are you
if you live near me I can give you a hand with sorting it out
I am in Cheltenham
Helston Cornwall, I’m affraid. Way out West!The used harness arrived today, but I haven’t opened the box yet, saving it till tomorrow - fingers crossed!
Wiring diagrams posted today, should be with you for the weekend.
Spot on, thanks.