# Stainless steel

**URL:** https://forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/t/stainless-steel/24891
**Category:** Big Block Tonti and Loop Frame models
**Created:** [17 October 2026 19:14 UTC](https://forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/t/stainless-steel/24891 "2026-10-17T19:14:57Z")
**Posts on this page:** 8
**Page:** 1

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### Author: ![Paul\_Hancock](https://forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/p/73ab20/32.png) [@Paul\_Hancock](https://forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/u/Paul_Hancock)
#### Post date: [17 October 2026 19:14 UTC](https://forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/t/stainless-steel/24891/1 "2026-10-17T19:14:57Z")

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Hello I have been trying to get in contact with chris shaw engineering to buy stainless parts for my guzzie t3 callie but he doesn’t answer the phone or mobile he has got a advert in the club magazine does anyone know where I can buy stainless steel part’s for a t3 ie wheel spindle thanks for looking

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### Author: ![DaiG](https://forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/d/46a35a/32.png) [@DaiG](https://forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/u/DaiG)
#### Post date: [18 October 2026 08:30 UTC](https://forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/t/stainless-steel/24891/2 "2026-10-18T08:30:21Z")

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Ebay shop - [ShawStainless](https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p3542580.m47492.l71970&_ssn=shawstainless)

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### Author: ![Hayden](https://forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/user_avatar/forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/hayden/32/1424_2.png) [@Hayden](https://forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/u/Hayden)
#### Post date: [18 October 2026 20:21 UTC](https://forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/t/stainless-steel/24891/3 "2026-10-18T20:21:14Z")

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is stainless up to the job for a wheel spindle? I thought it needed high tensile steel.

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### Author: ![DaiG](https://forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/d/46a35a/32.png) [@DaiG](https://forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/u/DaiG)
#### Post date: [19 October 2026 08:05 UTC](https://forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/t/stainless-steel/24891/4 "2026-10-19T08:05:30Z")

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It’s well up to it. I’m not sure what grade stainless both Dave Middleton and Chris Shaw use, but I do know it’s easier to scratch the original spindle compared to the stainless replacement.

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### Author: ![Paul\_Hancock](https://forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/p/73ab20/32.png) [@Paul\_Hancock](https://forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/u/Paul_Hancock)
#### Post date: [22 October 2026 20:11 UTC](https://forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/t/stainless-steel/24891/5 "2026-10-22T20:11:50Z")

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Hello all made contact with contact with chris shaw he doesn’t make spindles for motor guzzie so will look elsewhere thanks for your help

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### Author: ![DaiG](https://forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/d/46a35a/32.png) [@DaiG](https://forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/u/DaiG)
#### Post date: [22 October 2026 20:53 UTC](https://forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/t/stainless-steel/24891/6 "2026-10-22T20:53:02Z")

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It looks like Dave Middleton Stainless doesn’t do them any more either 🙁 Another thought would be to buy bar of the correct thickness (14mm? - can’t remember and too lazy to go and measure) and find someone to machine threads on either end. ‘Machined’ threads, not ‘tapped’. Tapped threads tend to chip if not done absolutely spot on and so are slightly weaker than machined threads. Grade A2 or grade A4 stainless will do you.

_However_. If you are going to fit stainless bolts, _do not neglect regular checking and greasing_. ‘Regular checking’ is slackening the nuts and rotating the bolts to prevent galvanitic corrosion - you should be doing the front engine mounting bolt and the gearbox mounting bolt anyway to prevent the OEM bolts from rusting up solid.

Just to frighten you: I had a T3 California brought in with a corroded front engine bolt. Heat, penetrating fluid, cold shock - absolutely **nothing** was going to move it. Three days of working it over and it hadn’t budged a millimetre. Eventually I very carefully hacksawed through the side of the timing chest and the bolt so I didn’t damage the frame. I took the timing chest off and heated it within an inch of its life with a flame, then I was _finally_ able to beat out the remains of the bolt. When I remounted the engine in the frame I shimmed the timing chest to the width of the hacksaw blade on either side.

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### Author: ![Don-Spada](https://forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/user_avatar/forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/don-spada/32/67_2.png) [@Don-Spada](https://forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/u/Don-Spada)
#### Post date: [23 October 2026 19:48 UTC](https://forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/t/stainless-steel/24891/7 "2026-10-23T19:48:13Z")

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They are for a Cali 3, so may not be suitable for your T3 Cali, but there are a pair for sale on ebay.

> **[Moto Guzzi Cali 3 + other models - wheel axles - stainless spacers, nuts...](https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/198730390664?mkevt=1&mkcid=16&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=3IERzJtHSVq&ssspo=9Nzq3EzMSQ2&stype=1&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY)**
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> Stein Dinse show the rear axle as suitable for the following models.

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### Author: ![FletchG](https://forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/user_avatar/forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/fletchg/32/1442_2.png) [@FletchG](https://forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/u/FletchG)
#### Post date: [24 October 2026 09:05 UTC](https://forum.motoguzziclub.co.uk/t/stainless-steel/24891/8 "2026-10-24T09:05:05Z")

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Re types of stainless, I’m going to be very generalist here, but good test re type of stainless is ‘is it magnetic’. Austenitic Stainless Steels are primarily designed for corrosion resistance (think chemicalprocess plant), with lower strengths (similar to mild steel) and are non-magnetic; they also work harden horribly, so are a pain to work with at home.

Ferritic and Martensitic Stainless Steels have much higher strengths (think engineering components, EN4 etc.) and combine this with corrosion resistance; they are generally magnetic.
