T3 brake bleeding

Any thoughts would be appreciated. After a year in storage I’m finally reinstating the linked brake. I have re bled the front right brake using method gained from this forum previously , pushing fluid through the caliper up to the master cylinder , that was easy but the same method isn’t working on the front left caliper. Nothing’s getting through. Has anyone had this problem? The front left and rear calipers have both had new piston and seal kits and the hoses are new. When I got the bike the front left disc wasn’t fitted so I’m hoping the splitter isn’t blocked although the rear has always worked. The forum has come to the rescue several times so fingers crossed. Cheers. Dougie.

First I assume it is the standard T3 splitter and not the Spada one with the valve.
If so checking it isn’t blocked is easy as all 4 holes are interconnected so block off 2 at a time and blow through, wash it first.
After that I generally hold the pedal down and suck the fluid through with a large syringe.
After you have filled it through bleed the front, then the rear, then the front again.

Thanks for the quick reply. I was trying to force fluid through the caliper nipple all the way to the master cylinder using a syringe. The splitter is standard T3. Plus I didn’t realise the rear pedal had to be held down.

Have you done through the rear calliper as well?

No I stayed at the front as I’d just done the right caliper. Gave up as I’m working on the drive and it got cold and windy. Would the rear have been an easier place to start?

Well thing is there’s a big part at the back still full of air. I’ve only done it “top down” the conventional way but if memory serves the manuals say do the rear first, then the front, then you have to keep alternating back and front until you get all the air out. Not done it from a completely empty system for some while but it can be a right faff.

Thanks. One more showing my ignorance question though. Is it necessary to bleed both nipples on each caliper. I only ask as gutsibits recommend putting just one automatic bleeder nipple on each caliper. I haven’t got these but it made me think.

I akways use one of them brake bleeding tubes and never normally have a problem. They cost a couple of quid from your local motor factors and act as a one way valve.
Once all the air is out then it does need a good few presses up and down on the pedal to push the pistons back into position.
If reverse filling I would certainly still go round and bleed all the nipples once you have filled the system.

Can’t remember what I did with the calipers with 2 nipples! Tho I noticed newer ones only had one. I can only tell you way I normally do it is pump the lever or pedal a few times, hold it, then open the nipple just enough to let it out, then close immediately, repeat. Helps a lot if the bleed tube and jar (I’ve always used a glass jar) is higher than the caliper.

IIRC do the rear until actual fluid comes out, then the front ditto, repeat both etcetera.

Sort of a progress report. I’ve sucked fluid with a syringe through rear and front left caliper. There was a lot of resistance and not as much fluid as I’d hoped but at least some bubbles. The pedal was held down all the time. Then I tried the normal way pumping and holding down the pedal while opening the nipple but no fluid came out the tube. Would it help to hold the pedal down overnight? There is a good bike workshop in the next village but I really wanted to suss this out by myself with the help I’ve already had.

Dougie, If you’re about on Sunday morning, I could pop over with my easybleed. It worked on my linked brakes, and I think I have some O-rings that will stop brake fluid pissing all over the place this time!


If you aren’t getting fluid out when you press down on the pedal with a bleed nipple open, it sounds like you still have air in the system. Pumping the pedal up and down several times with the nipples all closed does sometime pump up the system.
Others do swear by leaving the pedal pushed down overnight. I don’t tknow why it works, but it does seem to help.

Thanks John. I’ve sent you a pm.

I was told years ago that holding down the brake pedal overnight caused the air to break down into microscopic particles distributed throughout the system, and these would eventually all join together again and the problem would be back. Whether its true or not I don’t know, though the only times I’ve had a problem bleeding brakes or clutch on any vehicle there has turned out to be a worn or faulty component involved.

Have to confess I’ve not understood it either. If air is in there, will still be afterwards if nothing further is done to get it out.

I guess it will help to push the pistons out as far as they will want to go and stay there.