T5 Brake Switch

Technical Big Block Tonti and Loop Frame models
1

Wonder if anyone knows of a CHEAPER replacement for my 87 T5 Front brake light switch, looking on the Gutsibits site, I find they want £40 for it… :astonished:

Surely there MUST be a cheaper option out there… :question:

2

Stick a search on eBay for" Hydraulic brake pressure switch",
Could be the answer :smiley:

3

Didn’t believe that so went to Gutsibits site, yep he ain’t wrong it looks like a “special design”, so just any other “normal” one won’t fit.

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4

Mike H lad, I MAY be Gormless, I admit that. But I don’t speak with Forked Tongue… :laughing:

I’ll try a search, but I fear they’ll have me by the plumbs, and I’ll have to buy a £6 switch for £40 in the end… :unamused:

Wonder if I should try to sneak me way through the MOT tomorrow, or should I just cancel and try again with the new switch fitted, course that’ll mean using the bloody car for the commute… :imp:

5

The “hydraulic brake pressure switch” is a banjo bolt with a built in switch, priced from £6 on a well known auction site.

6

Well suck back and rotate… :smiley:

Went out into the fettling shed, took all the fairing off, then with ice cold dead fingers, took the switch out. Tried testing it with me tester, bugger all, so with nothing to lose but £40, after placing it in me vice, I twisted the plastic bit, where the contacts are, just a tad mind, which as you’ll know is less than a knats. And got a reading on me tester… :astonished:

Hooked it up to the bike, and the brake light came on, but stayed on, so I figured it was meant to, until it was bolted in place, which I did. The ignition was switched ON, no brake light… :slight_smile:

Then the moment of truth…

I pulled in the brake lever and…

It only bloody works… :smiley:

Ahh, but I hear you say, bet it didn’t with the vibration of a running engine, I fired up the mighty beast, pulled in the lever at around 3000 rpm, and it WORKED, worked I tells ya… :laughing:

So I Saved £40 which I will sensibly use down the pub today at lunchtime, nothing like a Sunday beer after a morning of successful fettling… :wink:

7

You only need one switch (front or back) for an MOT

8

:astonished: Really, are you sure… :question:

Thought the old rule of thumb applied, if it’s fitted it HAS to be working…I’ll ask my MOT man tomorrow, and let you know what he says. Hope you’re right, something else I won’t have to worry about… :smiley:

9

http://www.motuk.com/bike/1-3.asp#Menu_Top

"Machines first used before 1 April 1986 must have a stop lamp that operates from at least one brake control.

"Machines first used on or after 1 April 1986 must have a stop lamp that operates from both brake controls.

“However, a small number of machines first used from this date were approved with the stop lamp operated by only one control. A machine should only be failed if you are certain that it was originally manufactured to operate from both controls.”

10

Before the war I was a MOT tester and it it was a myth that if it was fitted it had to work. We were told there was list (a book I think) of things that were part of the test, if I remember correctly seats weren’t actually a test item unless the seat belts were part of them.

11

This is a bit of an oddball tho, with what looks like extra long thread.

And it’s not hollow for a banjo joint.

12

The pressure switch is a replacement banjo bolt, (with a switch built in),
like the old t3 ones. :smiley:

13

Before the War :confused: :wink: :smiley:

14

It would seem that I am correct but only for bikes just older than yours! Both my Triumph and older Guzzi only have a front brake light switch, and both are older than your bike, this is handy if you want to slow down but not show a brake light (possibly if being followed when speeding!) but if you want to stop in a hurry I always use the front brake as well, which has a switch on it.
I assume that your bike has linked brakes, and that would muddy the water further as the foot pedal is a front and rear brake!
Talk to your MOT tester if in doubt as he is the one who is going to pass it.

Best of luck!

15

Well BUGGER me… :astonished:

Seems I DON’T need a front brake light after all, you WERE right… :astonished:

Rolled the bike out of the fettling shed, with a WORKING brake light, I know it was working cos I pulled in the front brake lever and the bulb lit. Fired up the old girl, and off we set, 8 miles later I’m at me MOT place. Right here goes…Pulled the lever and the bloody thing DIDN’T work… :smiling_imp:

Not too worry says me tester, you only need it to work on ONE brake… :smiley:

So sod it, if one is all it needs that’s all I’ll bother with in future, thanks for all the help, I’ll see you all at the Clocks camp. I’ll be the one with the non-working brake light… :wink: :laughing:

16

From the MOT website :-

Machines first used before 1 April 1986 must have a stop lamp that operates from at least one brake control.

Machines first used on or after 1 April 1986 must have a stop lamp that operates from both brake controls.

However, a small number of machines first used from this date were approved with the stop lamp operated by only one control. A machine should only be failed if you are certain that it was originally manufactured to operate from both controls.

17

Which is verbatim what I posted earlier :smiley:

Funnily enough I thought that would happen. :smiley:

18

Old school :smiley:

19

Reckon you have a friendly MOT Man Shaun :slight_smile: , according to the Ministry MOT advice above, 1987 should have two working brake lights :wink:

20

As an aside, on my '67 Bantam ‘Piecrust Racer’ I built it up with no lights at all. I was surprised that it need no stop light either. The talk of a daytime MOT is a bit of a misnomer - you just get an advisory along the lines of - ‘No lighting equipment fitted at the time of the test’.

I tried advising CN insurance on non standard details (I’ve also hard tailed it), but the young lad on the 'phone couldn’t get over it not being fitted with indicators.