The Old Favorite

Tyres… :unamused:

Don’t worry, I don’t want to ask the usual, just wondering WHY that’s all… :question:

Back in 87 when my T5 was purchased by my mate, it had a set of tyres on it with inner tubes in. He did 10,400 miles on it, and put it in the garagefor the next 20+ years. After he died, I bought the bike from his widow, fitted new tyres after doing 4000 miles on the old ones, and used the inner tubes. All has gone well, and I’m very happy, but now, them new tyres are showing signs of wear. And I’m just wondering if I can fit tubeless… :question:

It’s easy to repair a tubeless tyre if it gets a hole in it, just wondering why Guzzi used tubes, is there a sealing problem or something… :question:

Wheels are usually designed for either tubed or tubeless tyres , if you fit tubeless on an
unsuitable rim you may invalidate your insurance .
Because of the bikes age i suspect the wheel rims will be for tubed tyres .

I see from an earlier post that Thunderbird 5 has mag wheels and not spoked ones. I would assume that tubeless tyres would therefore be suitable as long as they are of the correct size and speed rating.

Ah the perfect answer, neither yes or no…Thanks lads, I’ll suck it and see, the bike squeezed through the MOT yesterday, so I might be able to cut some tread in, and get a few more months out of them. CHEERS. …

I wanted to put tubeless on my Le Mans stock cast wheels and was told “can’t, not designed for tubeless.” I think it’s more to do with the valve fitting. What was provided is just be a hole for a inner tube valve stem to poke through. Could be wrong tho but the guy flatly refused to do it. Safety issue.

Ditto Mike with my T4.

Did you expect anyone to give you a straight answer on here? On reflection the valve may be an issue and I am not a tyre fitter. Best of luck

Slightly off subject but has anyone ever used the heavy duty innertube that the enduro riders recommend? Had my bike for 2 1/2 yrs and never seen the tubes. Tyres are good , only ever needs the occasional squirt to maintain pressure but l am thinking a rubber tube must deteriorate like anything else. If i decide to fit new tubes heavy duty ones seem to be the way to go but would appreciate any advice. Cheers.

Did you expect anyone to give you a straight answer on here? On reflection the valve may be an issue and I am not a tyre fitter. Best of luck

Course I didn’t Chris… :wink:

In the meantime, I’ve taken the heads off the bike, look…

A bit of valve grinding, like I do on me BSA’s very enjoyable it is as well. So hang on, I’ll be asking questions soon… :laughing:

I have a heavy duty tube in the back of my 1000S, the only time I have had a tyre fitted by a shop I ended up with a slow puncture, I then put a tube in that scramblers use, Michelin Heavy Duty Moto X, the bloke said that it would make fitting difficult, it didn’t and the next time I replace a tube I’ll use another one. I’m a bit particular about tubes, back in the eighties I bought a bike, from a dealer, on which I had a rather too- exciting sudden deflation of the front tyre at speed, it turned out to have a 19" tube sort of folded a bit and squeezed into an 18" tyre. I went back wishing to have a word with them but they had closed down.

I’m thinking along the same lines ,replace them before a major incident and use the best ones available. Something l will do during the rough weather.Cheers

if you read the spec on the enduro type extra thick tubes they do say not to be fiited or used on the roads
why i dont know
i always put the biggest profile tube in possible as they all do a range of sizes

Didn’t know that,l will look a bit deeper before doing anything. Cheers

i asked the tyre companies - the reply was all modern/current tyres are designed to be run tubeless if the wheel rim type permits - but if not they can be run perfectly ok with tubes

When choosimg inner tubes for the CCMs I looked into the ‘ultra heavy duty’ type, thinking that logically, they should be best at warding off a puncture.

The advice I was given was to go for ‘standard’ good quality tubes (Michelin, from memory) and watch the mix of rubber and butyl (or something). Some of the cheap tubes on ebay use poor quality materials which offer less inherant puncture protection for a given thickness.

I was also advised that a thicker walled tube is more likely to run hot and suffer from pinch punctures because it isn’t as flexible.

This may be less relevant on a road-only bike. I was looking at possible issues when running low pressures off-road. Of course, we can extend the conversation to include slime type products too but that’s a whole lot more than the OP was asking!


I used to run tubeless on my old Guzzi snowflake tyres. You just need a long enough valve stem.

And lets not mention Mousses…and the …er …fitting there of… :imp:

Went for good quality standard tubes (Michelin )
and a new set of M22’s as the old ones were past their sell by date. Hoping to put all the bits back on this weekend .Thanks for all the advice .Cheers.