Top Hat Spacer - definitive answer?

Having left my horn dilema for a while, I thought I would re visit the rear wheel top hat spacer problem. I had left the bike with spacer missing and brake plate fitting perfectly, with the callipers aligning with the discs, spot on. Which according to all previous discussion and opinion would compress the swinging arm and do serious damage.Well, there is no compression of the swinging arm and everything seems to be fitting fine.If the bush is replaced the brake plate is moved across and does not align with the callipers.Comments please. Do I leave the bush out? Have I got some sort of different wheel? I am at a loss AGAIN!!!

If it works then that is the answer.
Worked on a mates cali 1100 changing the rear wheel bearings over the w/e.
Usual method, tap out with hammer and scewdriver and on the drive side a now knackered spacer comes out as well.
Never seen that before.
Phoned up St. B and he confirms it is not needed. The central spacer is enough.
So if it works leave it.
What is your horn ptoblem.

I have found a load of shims in the rear axle on my T3, between the Brake plate and the wheel top hat spacer.

Never seen that before, but I guess the previous owner felt that was better than “pinching” the swinging arm.

As Ian says, I guess if it works and it is robust then that is the answer…

Just had it to bits again and I can confirm, with the spacer missing the step on the spindle fits snug up to the calliper carrier, which in turn is snug to the wheel bearing. The nearside arm is free to find its own position on the spindle and is then pinched up with the locking nut. The callipers are correctly spaced, so no spacer is needed.My horns worked dangling on the wire. I made some solid brackets and attached them. They didn’t work. They come with flimsy brackets which Brian says they need to vibrate correctly and an internet search seems to confirm this. BUT, dangling again and they still don’t work, just a click from their relay. Confused.com

Do you have +ve feed to horns and earth throgh case or seperate earth?

Should be +ve feed to the horns and the other wire goes via the horn button to earth. The horns need the thin plate to vibrate but also they must not earth out to the frame.

Assuming the horn has two terminals, the case ought to be insulated. Don’t recall having to insulate them from the frame on the SPIII.

Do you have 12 volts on the +ve when you press the horn.
If you don’t have a multimetyer buy one, don’t bother with a test lead as chips are expensive in comparison.
If yes is the -ve terminal short to earth.
If both are correct try the horn direct from the bty.

cheers folks, that’s next on the list then. See General Banter!

Top hat spacerSpacersHave a read of the 2 threads above that were all about wheel spacing and check how the wheel is sitting onto the bevel box spline. The first thread was about problems getting the wheel fully onto the spline and involved reducing the spacer within the bevel box. When you think it is all in place, do the old trick of put it on the stand and see if both wheels actually look like they are in line when you stand in front or behind and look along the edges of the tyres.

Well I’ve read all that and either mine has already had something done to make it work or there are more combinations of bits that work in different ways. Mine seems to fit fine, into the bevel box and at the calliper bracket with no stress to the swinging arm and with NO top hat spacer. When I put the spacer in the calliper bracket moves the callipers out of alignment with the disc.The front one did need an extra bit on the spacer to centralise the wheel.This Guzzi thing that we all seem to suffer with is seriously deleterious to the wallet and confounds the laws of common sense, is there a cure?

I have pondered this and was wondering if someone had merely swapped the bearing carriers so you do not need the top hat.??? maybe I dunno, never seen a spoked wheel on the T3-V1000 type fream without a top hat, the Cast wheels do not need them at all. But then Guzzi are likely to change a spec then go back to it…oh the joy