Me thinks it’s time the UJ on my Cali got a check
What do I need to check its serviceability.
Is it just the wheel and bevel drive and a bit of calibrated feeling or does the swing arm need to come off too?
Cheers
You do need to take the swingarm off as well.Whilst in there cgeck and grease the collar that joins the 2 half shafts together.You should be able to see throught it. If not get rid of the built up dry rust in there.
Yes need to get the UJ out, push and pull all the needle bearings to see if there’s any play. Also it will most likely be loose in the support bearing (I assume it’s the same as the earlier 850/1000 Tonti’s). It can be reinstalled with nutlock type stuff. This means taking swingarm out; need to remove rear wheel, bevel box and shaft, and the swingarm pivot pins, and probably the nuts and bolts that join the upper frame to the lower frame rails. At least I have to on mine else swingarm won’t come out. Check also condition of the rubber gaiter and clips. There are circlips on the driveshaft sections, that should not be loose either. HTH Appendix ~ check also the swingarm bearings and seals, decide if you want to dismantle them to clean up and regrease, if so will need new seals. Check pivot pins and locknuts for signs of rust (if so reinstall with copper grease). Shawstainless does nice stainless locknuts for these.
Mike H2013-12-20 16:29:45
Mhhh I was hoping that I wouldn’t need to take the swing arm.
Hey ho it needs to be checked
Tris
The swinging arm pivot pins are fine thread so be gentle when removing and later refitting them, the clutch arm pivot pin sometimes gets rusted up and will not move, it it allways a good idea when the swinging arm is off to remove and clean/recrease this pin, but if it will not move do not attack it with a drift and a hammer, you can break the lug holding the clutch arm to the rear of the gear box end cover and breaking that lug is a pain to put right, (remove engine and then gearbox and then unbolt end cover and find a good alloy welder,) best bet is lots off heat, or if it wont move leave it for next time !. it also makes sense to renew the clutch release thrust bearing Guzzi part number 12087001 if it appears to have been on for a long time, or pick up one AX1022 bearing and one CP1022 bearing , (Nadella brand numbers but could be the same for any other brand) ) from your local bearing outlet, the guzzi set up has one thrust bearing and two thin shim washers, the Nadella ones have a washer on the rear of the thrust bearing so only one CP1022 is required, I have used the Nadella set up for many years on all my Guzzies.
northwest2013-12-21 09:32:50
Guzziology here I come
Tris, r u getting noticeable pulsing vibration thro the right foot/rest/board ?
This is usually the first sign…
When bad, we always find you can feel it pushing the bike round even…guykate2013-12-21 08:11:18
I’m not getting anything that I might recognise as a failed or failing UJ
The wisdom on here appears to suggest that preventative maintenance of the UJ is worth while hence the thread
Problem with taking the swing arm off is if the threads strip then I’m a whole different world of pain
If I take the bevel drive off can I get hold of the end of the shaft and feel any play in the UJ?
If yes then it would be a no brainer the tear the bike down to fix it
[quote=“tris”] Problem with taking the swing arm off is if the threads strip then I’m a whole different world of pain
These Threads, although ‘metric fine’, are pretty robust and to cross thread or damage them you really need to be forcing them… 14lb hammer to crack nut style!’
If you’re really worried about doing damage, take the securing nut of first leaving threaded short spindles in , spray releasing spray, even WD, into the area where the thread enters the frame, then after a while just turn with the Allen key, screw them in a bit first, then out, do it until you feel resistance lessen, that way, with the help of the releasing agent it will ease out and clean threads at the same time.
Once you have it out you can make sure the threads are clean before you reinstall by cleaning both the short spindle’s and the frame hole’s thread with a soft brass wire brush or a toothbrush.
Before you fit the spindle put on a spot of copper grease that will help it be resistant to corrosion and make it easier to take out the next time.
You won’t feel any play in the U/J by wiggling the end of the shaft, you must have the U/J in your hands to detect play. If you’re careful you won’t strip the swinging arm pivot pins, just take your time.
I soak my UJs in mineral oil overnight. May or may not do anyhthing but only replaced one (on two ‘permanent’ bikes) in 22 years.
Just make up your mind to the fact that you need to strip right back to the gearbox. BUT you get a chance to examine the condition of everything involved, so there is a bright side.
OK you’ve convinced me, back end coming off the bike!!
\
Deep down I know that its time that a 19 YO bike needs a proper check
I hope you’re all still on here when I get stuck
tris2013-12-27 13:07:36
Italian,
the factory mechanics used to soak the race bike UJ’s in EP 90’s. T’is what we do now…
There used to be some German nutter with a 1000S with 300,000km on. Changed the UJ once, then an old boy told him to fit shielded bearing in the back of the box instead of sealed. His second UJ lasted the remainder of the life of the bike - and indeed may still be going now.
Rob
mine is tight at a spot, worth a check
Sounds more like high spots on the brake disc? Pistons need some usage to take up the slack hence free to start with.
Equally that could happen if the U/J is not straight. If you could do it, it would be worth compressing the rear suspension so that the swinging arm was more parallel to the road (ie. U/J straight), then see if these tight spots are still there.
5 notchy spots per wheel revolution …
Failing carrier bearing?
forgot to add it has no vibration or noises when been riden or pushed along so, easiest first then: next weekend, I will try without the brake caliper in place.