upgrading to 10w60

So I Â have 2 guzzi’s , a very early V35 with a late monza engine and my pride and joy a V65TT.

Both seam to suffer from the oil getting very hot on long rides, even to the point of the crank thrust bearings getting a little noisy.

Was looking at the parts catalogues and noticed that the big end bearing shells etc are the same part numbers on my 1984 V65 TT as a 2011 V7 Cafe.

 The modern efi bikes are spec’ed to use synthetic 10w60 because of the extra heat, can anyone see any issues using this in older small blocks like my v65tt? as the bearings are the same I cannot see the oil being an issue but would welcome some input

Same oil pump…?

thats a good point,

just checked, v7 classic /cafe / stone same part number as a v65 pump as are bing end shells etcÂ

Synthetic oils in old bikes may result in oil seal leaks.

By “long rides” how do you mean, mostly motorway stuff, or rural A-roads? How many hours at a time?

Is there not a issue with less manganese or something in newer oils which shells and other wetted rubby dubby surfaces in elderly motorcycles like / prefer. In my pre 2000 motorcycles I tend to use SG type oil. Think there is some info in Richardson’s Guzziology about it. Need to have a browse thru the tome to refresh my memory on SG use .

If it aint broke etc…

Concur…oil again eh…

If the oil is getting hot how about an extended sump and therefore more of it? Maybe someone out there makes sump extensions for the small blocks?

Ian…I had several V50s and Monzas in my yoof and cant recall undue heat related issues…yer v65 is low geared is it not…and does your converted v35 have the much higher monza gearing ( cant remember if this is obtained in the box or the final drive)…Miko ?
Is much of your riding 2 up ?
The point I probably am trying to make hamfistedly is…maybe the bikes mite be working too hard maybe…?Â

Hi Kate,

they are both low geared, v35 has original box with monza engine as we only use it two up and the low gearing works well, esp as we dont go more that 30-40miles from home and potter along at 50-55.

TT is much much higher geared that the V35 and again mainly two up , timing 7deg static and advance working well, plugs on rich side when checked after a good ride. Sump extension wont fit TT as the sump guard would get in way.

On the road they work fairly hard but I am careful with them and both get 1000mile oil n filter changes

I know it’s oil and I know they’re your bikes but throwing away synthetic oil every 1000 miles is ever so slightly excessive.
I hammer my lil’Breva and it gets bog standard 10w40 every 5,000 miles and is grateful.

Kind of ditto. My Veefer runs 10/40 with a change every 2k miles. Gets hammered most places and goes just fine.

Only time I had a problem was back in the day coming back from a Spa endurance meeting, 2 up and with camping gear strapped all over the back. Out on the auto route and with the biggest tail wind imaginable I was running an indicated 105 mph trying to stay with a couple of Dutch guys on GPz900s. I had an oil pressure gauge fitted at the time and suddenly noticed pressure starting to drop away. Had to ease her up a little.

ZDDP. (Zinc something or other.) It deposits on metal surfaces to strengthen them, especially non-roller type cam followers.

However the powers that be have decided that if it ends up in the exhaust it reacts with the catalytic converter to make a poisonous gas or something, consequently ITS PRESENCE IS BEING REDUCED IN MODERN OILS.

So if you got an old engine especially having non-roller cam followers then increasingly you should be looking for a “classic” type mineral oil, failing that, something intended for diesel engines.

Or, or as well as, you can buy ZDDP additive, Frosts sell it.

I have no idea! Sorry …

sadly diff ratios are all the same so its a gearbox change to alter the ratio

Taken plunge and gone for a bottle of Motul 7100 full ester 10w60 thats SG rated :slight_smile: . Â Read a lot of Pete Ropers posts about small blocks cooling their oil, the bearings and pump etc are the same on my TT as a V7 / Breva so it can only help.!!Â

Done about 400 miles on the Motul 7100 10w60, lovely red coloured oil… Running very well, no leaks, no noises and seems very happy, oil temp now 90 deg after good blast. thrust bearing noise amost gone when read hot…

think I will be sticking with the 10w60 in both bikes!

Back in the eighties I religiously changed my GPz305’s oil every 1,500 miles (Kawasaki state every 3,000), this being half way between regular dealer services. At 6 months/12,000 miles, the roller bearing crankshaft decided enough was enough (luckily covered under warranty).

More recently, I’ve been mindful to change oil every year or the usual 6,000 recommended intervals on bikes these days but I’ve no qualms about over-running a bit because I don’t do any short journeys.

Triumph are now quoting 10,000 mile service intervals on the 1200 Explorer. Some car manufacturers are going much higher than this. I think the driving force behind this has been marketing and competition, rather than any massive leap in engineering but do please shout if this is not the case.


The wee white van gets oil change every 20000 miles. Citroen Nemo 1.3 diesel. Amazed. Seems so, so, wrong but…

To be fair though, wasn’t the 305 motor based on the Z250 Scorpion? That was a renowned turkey for early engine failure.

Yes. A very good example of getting more performance and economy than is logically possible but I understand the problem was with the oil delivery system which was barely able to cope.

As a teenager, I just saw the red swoopy bodywork and performance figures :slight_smile:


20.000 miles of soot and acid  ew  too many miles

I have to say my V65TT is running cooler and calmer on the Fully Synthetic 10w60 SG oil, 1000 miles now and no leaks or problems.

last ride on mineral 20w50 was showing 120degrees, over weekend two up it showed 90 deg after 40miles.

Im sticking with modern synthetic  10w60 from now on