My G5 has started 1st touch of button for the 2 years I’ve had it, but now it has developed a problem starting from cold. It bursts into life for about a second then dies and will take ages to start, any hint of throttle and it seems flooded, no throttle is no better.
Thought I would see if anyone recognizes the symptoms. Planning to strip the carbs and clean them, it runs fine and starts easy after initial start up.
ken over on guzziriders has been running a v1000 for best part of 100,000 miles, he might be worth a shout
choke plungers might be worn or stuck
How does it run once started?
Have you checked the plugs after the start/stop bit? May give signs of flooding etc.
All the best
Take the carbs completely apart, totally clean and reassemble with overhaul kits. You’ll probably find hard brown or green deposits in the float chamber, that’d be modern petrol doing that. Mine was a total mess last year, after not been used a few years, jets were so bad had to get new ones to be sure. Particularly look at the starter jets, note that they have an atomiser tube that mixes air with the fuel, the holes are very small and easily blocked with the aforementioned hard crud. The air comes in via a gallery with an external opening near the choke plunger. Also check the sunken bit in the bottom of the float chamber where the bottom of the jet sits. Also look at all the other jets, take the main jet tube out and clean the internal “accelerator pump” piston. This contains a plastic ball valve, make sure it’s loose (does it rattle when you shake it). Do not leave the carb’s “wet” if you’re going to leave the bike for a long period, drain the petrol off else it will dry out and leave the nasty hard deposits behind. Do that often, and they just pile up and they’re barstewards to get off. Edit: “Blow” through all air galleries with aerosol carb cleaner, to make sure they are free. Ditto the air gallery that feeds the idle speed screw, make sure fluid comes out of the tiny holes downstream of the slide. Edit: If the throttle stop and idle screws do not have O-rings, you might have to add them if the threads are a bit worn. These should come with the o-haul kit. HTH
Mike H2014-08-20 13:01:25
Thanks for replies so far,
bought overhaul kits yesterday, took carbs off today and realised they gave me wrong kits.
It has been a bit rich on one side, runs well though.
The choke plunger rubber at the top look likes it needs replacing, is the rubber under the plunger itself replaceable? It looks ok.
Still to dismantle carbs completely.
Left hand carb is remarkably clean, no deposits. I’m tackling one at a time in case I forget how they go back together.
The starter jet washer (o ring) looks like it needs replacing, hope this is the problem. How do I get it off? Small knife? Don’t want to damage the brass. Also is it easy to tell in overhaul kit what washer goes where? Should I warm the o rings up to help fit them?
Maybe I caused the problem by oiling the starter plunger when I thought they were sticking, can this degrade the o rings?
Did you take the starter jet out and look at the atomiser holes ~ there’s two I think, in the bottom of the thin section, below the screw thread. Mine were blocked on both carbs, causing too rich starting like you had. Yes starter jet O-ring is ‘kin’ tight, I lever it off with a small screwdriver, wet the new one with a bit of spit and force it on with your fingers. Can be a bit painful due to the force needed. But O-ring will stretch. Don’t think oil affects the O-rings. However be careful on assembly not to nip them, a bit of vaseline or somesuch on the choke top O-ring when refitting ensures it slides in OK, ditto starter jet O-ring when replacing the float chamber. As to what in the kit goes where, if it fits, great, if not, it obviously don’t go there.
Mike H2014-08-21 01:35:43
This may (not) be useful.
If you don’t have VHBs the alternatives are Googleable.
I tend to nick the o ring with a sharp blade/razor before prising them.
All the best
VHB in picturesguzzibrat2014-08-21 13:00:58