Eureca!!!
Fixed. yes it was the phase or crank / ignition sensor.
i also re-set the dino jet power commander. also enriched the fuel pump/low rev range by 5%
it now runs like a dream. no popping, flat spots. great ecceleration. i lust want to hug & kiss it. think i will leave the wife & run away together.
Excellent!
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It’s nice to be right now and again… 
Crank sensors are such a common fault, cost a tenner or so from an auto factor. I keep a spare.
Glad all is sorted.
Oh, reading through the post again I see it was the sensor, good that you were able to figure it out
Mind telling us what put you onto the sensor and how did you establish how it was bad?
If you monitor the Voltage on the fuel pump with a 12 Volt lamp it will tell you volumes
When you turn the key on the pump will start and run for a couple of seconds, this is strictly on time, no sensors involved.
After a couple of seconds the pump will stop.
When the motor starts to crank the phase sensor sends pulses to the ECU, the ECU then re-starts the pump via the relay.
Of course if the sensor is not working the pump doesn’t re-start.
Some owners take the sensor out to fix an oil leak then find the bike won’t start because they put it back with the wrong gap 0.6 - 1.2 mm
A useful point to monitor with a 12 Volt lamp is the coil of the ECU relay, its quite common to get the input from the stand relay sizzling away at a low voltage letting the ECU relay drop out intermittently resetting the ECU, the earlier bikes 1998 to 2002 (in Nth America anyway) had an electric petcock perfectly placed in the circuit to act as a monitor point.
I have 12 Volt LEDs installed under the seat of my VII Sport, I drilled a hole in each relay base and wired a 1K resistor from the 87 contact thru an LED to ground. They sit there glowing away drawing next to no current ready to let me know what’s going on.
Another way to add a diagnostic light is just tape a resistor and LED to the outside of a relay with the wires hooked around the coil pins.