Please bear with me on this. I have my bike back together but having lost a few key marks on flywheel, crankshaft etc had to set up the fly wheel position on crank by getting to a situation where the actual TDC compression stroke (observed though the valves and physical check through the spark plug hole) aligned with the TDC marks on the flywheel when passing the window in the cluch housing for each side. I was satisfied I had all of this right though as mentioned previously I only have TDC marks on my flywheel (no advance marks) Now, I also marked the relative positions of the two ignition sensors in relation to their mounting on the casing so that I would have to struggle with re timing. Following aquablasting marks are now gone. Bike will not start but I have a healthy spark on both sides. Question - is it possible to check timing statically with a light bulb connected to the HT lead and battery neutral in the same way I have done previously with a dynatec ignition on my lemans. In other words rotate engine and observe when light comes on which I think should be 13 degrees advanced? I have already aligned the mark on the rotor according to the manual with each sensor for each side. I would use a strobe if I could get the bike running. Any suggestions welcome
Mark TDC for each cylinder with paint or nail varnish ( prev different colours)
than turn the flywheel down 4 teeth ( as you look through the timing hole) and then make a fresh mark. Â Â
that should be around 10deg btdc.
are you a 100% sure you have the sensors wired correctly? usual mistake is connecting the sensors to the wrong sides… Â ie they are swapped left and right…
quick test swap the low tension coil wires round and see if it starts
You cannot do static manual timing unless you have a very very sensitive multimeter or a scopeÂ
Thanks so much
Will check this evening if I get the chance. Is it usually fairly close based on the manual set up?. Â You mentioned 10 degrees but the manual refers to 13 degrees to the first mark . is there any reason for this or is it not that critical?
Thanks once again Â
my v65 is 10 deg, v35 is 7.
dont get to hung up on a degree or two out, just get it running at anything around 10btdc so you can move over to dynamic timing with a strobe Â ( but keep revs below 1500 to set base timing)Â
Just a quick update. Checked the pick ups were on the correct sides. Possibly not but re assembled after having checked left and right and marked on 4 pin plug and socket. Not much adjustment on the pick ups in order to get the required 0.2mm clearance with the rotor and not much adjustment side ways either which I resume could be used to adust the timeing slightly. aligned the various marks as instructed in the manual. Â Fired her up and started on the button. Oh joy. Checked the low rev timing at 13 degrees using this clever strobe with the dial thingy an good in the right but a tad low in the left. Noted that if I dialed the strobe to around 18 degrees the mark came up to centre of window. Not sure what that signified but think it means left side is a little slightly retarded? Cant rev her at the moment to check the full adavance at recommended 5000rpm cos it’s too late and I am a considerate neighbour. Will keep posting.Â
Thanks once again for the tips
never ceases to amaze me that the pile of engine parts only a few weeks ago is now a fully living breathing thing of beauty. Â Â
Remember - Air gap between the trigger and the sensors must be the same.
This is a great thread for me. Thanks to all posting on it. Maybe get mine timed next week and then on the road!
this is what you want. Â proper advance curve and much much better ride
Thanks for this
Reved her up at the weekend and checked advance at above 4000rpm and it appears spot on on both sides. Intend to check the tick over with strobe again. Couldn’t effect much change by limited movement of the sensor on the left. Get the point about the alternative electronic ignition but sadly I already have the most expensive v50 ever re -made . Its been with me for around 30 years but even so. Might ask santa for the upgrade next year
Thanks for the suggestionsÂ
Iâ€™m gonna keep saying it (sorry) â€¦ my view:
If you set up the mk II carefully it works real sweet. Two things:
. If youâ€™re on bigger mileage now, say >40k miles, swap out all the jets in the carbs for new. Over time impurities in the fuel will open out the holes and exacerbate problems.
. You MUST make sure the air gap between the trigger and each of the ign sensors is the SAME. Otherwise, whilst both sides will be timed correctly at full advance they will go up the â€˜curveâ€™ at slightly different times. This gives the flat spot.
The Black Pearl runs as nice as I could want at >62k miles now. I wouldnâ€™t change a thing.
Persistence is very welcome CyclobutchÂ
I should be able to check these gaps again at the weekend and let you know how I get on. I also intend to check the balance of the carbs with a vacuum gauges as these haven’t been set up very well so far. I think the main jets and in in fact all the jets in the carbs have only a few thousand miles on them so should be OK. I think there is wear on the slide and I’m not sure how critical this is but the bike starts on the button and ticks over with choke for about 15 seconds and then no choke (summer time) but I guess that’s another thread. Tick over is slow to start and then speeds up as bike warms up.Â
Yeah - mine is still running the original slides OK, always with the std air box. Mine only ever needs the choke to fire up (if at all) after which you can pretty much flick them off straight away.
Just as an update followed the advice and she’s running beautifully, smooth and easy to start with a little clutch for about 5 secs. Thanks for all the pointers.Â