when you say it continues to click, is this when you press the starter ? or just clicks in and out for no reason
if its for no reason then there may be a wiring fault or even a faulty relay
Yes, it clicks as soon as the ignition is turned on, only stopping if I flick the Kill Switch to Off.
I’ve had the Kill Switch apart, cleaned and continuity tested it with my meter, all seemed normal.
The #12 relay is getting an intermittent signal from somewhere, as originally mentioned, when the bike first stopped I was able to bump start it but it ran poorly (just like #12, the secondary injection relay, was getting an intermittent signal) until it stopped for good. Things are all pointing in that direction.
Hope to investigate the ignition switch for poor connectivity this weekend.
I recall a GPz550 I had with a flickering back light which puzzled me for ages before finally tracing it to damaged soldering at the ignition switch.
I’ve been putting of investigating this one as it’s a pain getting at everything (though the GPz was far worse, and complicated by the instruments it had on the tank).
Thanks again for your response 
Relay 12 seems to be linked to the fuel pump, the HT coils, the Lambda probe and the injectors, so if that is playing up, it could explain the poor running. This is through a red black wire. Are you getting constant power to the coils with the ignition on or is it flickering as the relay clicks in and out?
A pair of wires from the ECU switch this relay on or off.
has the machine been buggered about with ? ie some fool wiring things into the harness and using tape and terminal blocks ?
is it the starter relay that is clicking or the pump relay, on my machine they both share the same fuse, but it could be a trapped wire on the headstock where accesories have been badly fitted ( some people have a habit of removing accessories to sell them and get more money ?)
or is it as Dob says a fuel control relay waiting on a signal from the machine to start
might be worth contacting the previous owner to ask if they had any problems, as a sparkie, some of my most challenging repairs have been where DIY know it all nutters have chopped into harnesses and looped things in, you machine does not have Canbus does it ? I am sure its too old for that
what is that supplying ?
it looks like the main feed, so out with the cutters and run some new cable and connectors
cut the cables right back to source, as the overloading will have heated the cable and made it brittle
Yellow wires go from the alternator to the regulator. I assume this is also the rectifier.
Yes indeed, the two yellow wire connector block is between the regulator (reg/rect I assume too) and the ‘pickup’, so alternator.
At the risk of saying something already said and discounted:- Have you tried another battery. It is possible for a battery to show 12 point something volts but still not have enough energy to start the bike. Especially if the charging circuit is a bit naff. My wife’s car showed over 12 volts but it would not turn the starter motor. I put a meter on the contacts and then switched it on and the meter went down to 8 volts.
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Latest in my Starting Saga…
I’ve taken the starter to a well respected auto leccy, a quick test on his bench said it wasn’t right, told him how much I can replace it for, he’s gonna call back when he’s had a proper check.
He also gave me a nice Durite Deutsch DT connector to replace my burnt out one.
Took my battery to the Battery Warehouse in Grimsby, it’s run by a lad I know, he tested mine and said yea, great 12.7V, but it’s buggered, only a couple of Amps so naff all cranking power.
New un ordered, due ina a couple of days at only £36.! It’s not a lithium thing obvs, and I’ve no trickle charger, but I usually use my bikes enough year round to keep things sweet.
Fingers crossed a sorted starter, battery and new connector should sort my issues.
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While digging about I did notice there’s quite a few ‘non-standard looking’ cable ties holding the wiring in place under the tank.
There’s also one connector which has a cable tie holding it together, whether that’s just a knackered connection tab or to prevent vibration induced looseness who knows (supplies the back light I believe). Plan to replace that too.
I also saw my ignition switch only has two wires, is this normal’.?
I’ve seen poor soldering at the switch as a potential issue on others, but on the pics I’ve seen, they all had multiple wires (lights, parking lights etc I guess) is that standard.?
And also, I saw that there’s a big chunky wire direct from the battery to the starter, this looks like genuine factory wiring. Is this ‘normal’.?
(Again, I’ve seen the wiring mod others have installed but mine seems not to require this).
Looking at the wiring diagram, the key switch does only have 2 wires connected to it. Number 29 in this image.
Gotta say Don, as a newbie on here the advice and info offered by all, but especially yourself and Raphael is really greatly appreciated.
I’m a non-trained but hands-on rider who enjoys trying to resolve issues where possible, you guys have encouraged me to keep digging and hopefully I’m on the way to a resolution.
Frustrating though it’s been, especially having jumped on my neglected Suzuki Vstrom today to find it start and stop as efficiently as ever, I’m looking forward to getting out and about on the Guzzi again. Fingers crossed. 
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I’m a big Guzzi fan, I got into the marque many years ago after swapping between relaible Jap bikes that were dead reliable but no soul and old Brits that were full of character, but spent more time prepping them for the next trip than I did riding them!
I bought my first Guzzi in 1988, a Le-Mans 2 that was fantastic, but uncomfortable so swapped that for my Spada that I have owned for 35 years now.
My first bike was a 25 year D1 BSA bantam that my brother gave me for my 16th birthday and I spent the next year rebuilding it so I could ride it when I was 17. It tought me one end of a spanner from the other. I have always looked after my own bikes and rarely taken them to a garage for repair.
I must admit I avoid owning bikes with fuel injection and ECU’s because I don’t understand what goes on in that little silver box.
It sounds like you are getting close to resolving your problems. Batteries can be deceiving, appearing to work, but lacking ooomph to spin the motor over. The low output may well explain the relay clicking in and out due to lack of power.
you need to consider a trickle charger, or solar charger as the electronic system can drain the battery over time
cheaper than a new battery
glad you sorted the problem, those connectors on the alternator circuit are known to corrode and fail, Antonio always cleans and lubricates mine
I should think a new battery, fix the wiring, and test the starter and you should have a reliable machine, probably why the last owner sold it
It Lives.!
Having gone through all the ‘usual suspects’… yup, a battery change has my bike up and running.
I should have listened eh…
In my defence, with it kicking out over 12v, and holding that over a period, I really thought it was okay.
Good news is;
A. It’s up and running again
B. I’ve given it a pretty good going over in many of the areas probably neglected due to the lack of use during the last few years with the previous owner.
Also…
C. I’ve replaced the burnt connector on the alternator- reg/rec connector block.
I’d strongly recommend anyone who’s not looked at this connector lately to check theirs.
Thanks again for all your contributions folks, as a newbie on here your responses and support has been brilliant.
Look forward to catching up with some of you at a future meet.
Cheers, Mick.
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