Have reluctantly decided to sell my Convert, (Pete Knight has first dibs…), now looking for a sidecar outfit, prefer Guzzi obviously.
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(What could possibly go wrong) 
Yeah - well I can stand a 50p on edge on mine with the motor running.
Thanks to the notes provided here I got the ‘short’ across the neutral switch set up so I’m now to free press the button when Jug is in gear and go charging off. Couldn’t get the relay out to check what contact was what by numbers but managed OK in the end. Found one of the three fuel lines quite cracked so replaced that whilst I was in there. Even recently sourced fuel line doesn’t seem to last so long.
Made a nice new flag staff out of some nylon rod so that the Nepalese flag that sits behind the screen looks a bit better. Not many others get to post that kind of info here. Just got to finish off making the diplomatic plate now.
I think I’ve pretty much finished on tweaks to the fleet, and it doesn’t look like I’m going to be going riding any time soon so I don’t know what else I’ll have to post up here.
Just remember not to crank it over when it’s on the side stand unless you know it’s in neutral.
Ian
That’s a fact!
Yeah - I seem to be able to manage that with every other bike on the fleet. I suppose it’s a bit like the folks who tell you how many times ABS has saved their lives. I guess it would be a liability for me if some of the bikes had it and others did not.
Actual quote from Renault forums a while back - probably last year - (to best of memory)
“Dad you’ve really got to look at my brakes they’re not working properly!”
“They were fine when I drove it yesterday.”
“But they’re really bad now, I have to push the pedal really hard and it was juddering!”
“That wasn’t your brakes failing, that was black ice and your ABS kicking in”
Started a few jobs on the Spada, which is the bike I want to take to Mandello.
As mentioned in another thread, I am making some pannier racks so I can fit the boxes from my loop. Laser profiles picked up yesterday so I will have a look at those over the weekend.
Also ordered some fancy stainless floating front discs from HMB, which also arrived yesterday. Based on my last trip over the Alps on the loop, good brakes are quite important.
German VAT deducted from the price and nothing to pay this end, so that was a nice saving.
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Those discs look good. Are they are straight fit to the Spada wheels?
Steve
I got my discs from HMB too, but not drilled or floating. They are a straight fit. I had the middle of the stainless disc powder coated so that the semi-circular scollops on the disc blended in with the disc carrier to make them look more like the original ones. I think the stainless bolts I have used are 1mm too long!
Yes, should be. Only difference is fixing bolts need to be 5mm longer as the flanges are thicker.
They are stainless and floating. The others like Chris has are only slightly cheaper so I thought I’d for the full bling. Got the recommended sintered pads too.
Ian
I’m kind of doubtful that it could be an issue, but I’ve heard you want to be using high tensile fixings on brake applications where you are placing a lot of shear on them. Be interested in hearing other thoughts here … ?
Well I moved a bunch of bikes around on Saturday, including al three of the Guzzis. That all went a bit like this;
get the SP(370) out of the garage
get the Pearl out of the bike port
uncover Blue and get that out of the bike port
get Jug off the table and out of the garage
put Jug in the bike port and put the cover over it
put the Pearl in the bike port
put Blue on the table (so it doesn’t get rained on)
get the car out of the car port (leave it running)
get the cover off Hardley and get it out of the car port
get Blue off the table and put it in the car port, cover it
drive the car round the block and put it in the car port
get the station clunker (bicycle) out of the garage and down the side of the car port
put the SP down the side of the car in the car port
put Hardley on the table
So not a bad workout. I’ve now pulled the rear off of Hardley for a bunch of remodelling - short shox, cut down mudguard, solo seat etc. But as that is an XLH1200 that’s a different story for a different forum.
It probably isn’t a problem as they won’t foul anything.
I have used stainless bolts on discs for a long time now and have not had any issues at all.
I know there has been some discussion on here before about this but I am happy with my fasteners.
Re the stainless fixings on your discs the amount of thread sticking through looks bang on,
(On a nut and bolt a minimum of 2 threads should show)
I’ve also used stainless steel on brakes, (discs and calipers)for years without a problem 
Interesting thing about bolts that attach discs, chain sprockets, whatever, that wasn’t obvious to me at any rate, until I saw a video explaining it.
It’s the same as any other 2 plates bolted together - it isn’t the bolts that resist the shearing force, it’s the friction between the two surfaces of the plates. All that the bolts have to do is apply and maintain the pressure. If the bolts are showing marks of side load on the shanks, then something is wrong (i.e., they’re loose) because the plates shouldn’t move. When you have it explained like that, you’re like, “Doh! Of course.”
I was ‘ticked off’ on another forum for suggesting that I’ll be using button-head stainless screws to reattach my Bantam’s new rear sprocket. (It’s only 4 hp after all.)
No alright, so I gave in and did as I was told, get high tensile bolts with plain shanks of a length corresponding to the combined thickness of the two pieces needing to be clamped together, which meant getting longer ones then cutting the surplus off the ends. Then I saw the video. I’m still going to use the plain shank bolts tho only because I got them specially and then went to the trouble of modifying them.
PS: the new discs look really fab BTW.
