1000sp gear change

Hi all new to my 79 1000sp,is the gearbox normally a bit agricultural in so much as up shifts not very smooth,and occasional false neutral no clutch slip or drag.

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That sounds just like a Guzzi. You should check the connection between the pedal and the gear box, it all works best if all of the components are at 90 degrees to each other. Also check the gearbox oil.

If everything else fails try and ride it as if it is a tractor, slow positiove gear changes not quick and slick like a Japanese bike (other countries of manufacture are available)

Best of luck

Hi thanks for that,not complaining already run a 71 Commando so used to a clunk here and there will check the linkage, overall very pleased with the old girl,I do like a big twin.

You must be referencing older tractors - modern ones are as sophisticated as modern cars.

Music to my ears :upside_down_face:

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last one

Roy, you can improve the gear change but it involves engine out and reshimming the shafts. I dont think that the factory were that careful when the gearboxes were assembled. It will never be as slick as a Suzuki, so if you can live with it then I’d leave it alone as you may find the selector forks have worn to suite. (Been there got the t-shirt).

Thanks for that,can certainly live with it.

Had another thought. Chris mentioned checking the linkages etc. Something else worth checking is the bushes in the pedal pivots. They are only plastic and can wear, introducing a bit of slop. Gutsibits have them and they’re inexpensive. Search for FRA17050

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I did the reshimming of my Spada gearbox and it barely made a difference, still plenty of false neutrals if you don’t push the lever far enough. Long movement of the lever and slow changes in general work best for me.

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Funny apart from a clunky first, mine works great, no false nuetrals. My Cali on the other hand jumps out of first but only when it gets warm (and you’ve just pulled out infront of a bus). Its on the list to fix.

Between the gear lever and the gearbox there’s a plastic bush inside the lever, pivoting on a steel bolt. then there’s a clevis attached to a short rod with a ball joint on the end. All of these can wear. I’d consider replacing the plastic bush and pivot bolt and then replacing both the clevis and ball joint with a pair of female rose joints and 6mm allen screws. All of that will remove a considerable amount of lost movement in the lever assembly (probably 10mm + at the lever end) and will improve the gear change significantly.

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