Mmm interesting, can get quite a bit of corrosion, but not sonething we’ve struggled with in the past. Will watch this space Johnno. X
As I said Thursday you will need a good hex socket to get that one undone NOT the ones with the 16 edges.
they tighten in this order
3 5 2
1 6 4
SO the two centre ones when UN doing are the FIRST two you undo
you really need to get the 4 nuts tourqued up in order to get the back and front ones undone mate.
I do have a proper socket that fits the #5 nut if you need it.
Yeah but no but, valve clearances unaffected. I have had this happen, it can end up with the push rod dropping off the rocker at the top, the gap gets that huge.
These can get rusty, suggest copious applications of plus-gas type stuff, leave to soak. To undo this I usually use good tough allen key and a bit of steel tube over it for more leverage.
had to drill mine out and replace the studtried impact drivers and plumbers blow lamps didnt touch it
this is my plan of attack ,im not rushing. i can tell by the feel i got one chance to really go for it and at the moment it is not the right time .many thanks to all .
Actually, I’ve just thought, if it’s that tight the whole stud will simply unscrew and come out. Guess how I know Found one of those nuts cross-threaded once. (only just remembered.) No I didn’t do it.
Mike H2013-03-04 14:11:26
There are many reasons for it to be a total git BUT that said MOST of the time, rmember this has gone through many heat cycles and UNLIKE the ones in the rocker boxes has NOT had regular "cooling (relatively) oil washing around it.
releasing oil
Make sure you have a real good quality HEX socket I actually shattered a socket on mine first time. Still got it out
UNDO the rear then spark plug FIRST the tension then remains on the 4 others as per the GUZZI manual
Use a long bar or tourque wrench and apply slow steady pressure.
Remember to tighten in reverse order SO the plug and rear ones get done last.
ALSO remember to re check the tourque after 6 weeks and a few hunderd miles, you need to do this at least twice between doing it and 5000 miles.guzzibear2013-03-04 19:36:40
2nite i went for it .The bike was on a stand and it pushed the bike up but it felt like i had a chance .On second attempt it was my back or the nut giving and i won .Never ever had one that tight .Anyway everything looked good untiill i held conrod , no question bigend gone .Will take shell bearings off this saturday and see how bad they are .Many thanks to you all .This bike will ride again.Funny thing is i bought 3 really rough looking guzzis on the outside but they had been looked after on the inside.The 1100 looks the best by far but its not been looked after on the inside
johnno2013-03-06 19:02:46
Yep they do get tight buddy …It took me all my time to get mine undone.
When doing it back
-
use coppergrease or better I have some aircraft quality stuff if y want it . NOT coppergrease but easiest way to describe it.
-
buy a couple of NEW nuts for the back and spark plug and well worth a new head plug nut
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DO them back up in the order I listed and tourque them once they are tight
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DO not forget the neoprene lil rings I am guessin it is the same as the older 4 valves with 2 at the bottom and 4 at the top. make sure you roll them down the studs so they drop in at the recess without any twists, top tip always worth getting a couple of spare ones
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the heads WILL need re tourquing after If I remember 600 mls and 2500 miles should be good after that, this will also mean the tappetts need resetting too.
Apologies if this is Grandma and egg sucking again but hey… happy to pop and assist/drink tea/coffee/beer/take the …ooops help
Oh crap
When we chatted I was 99% sure that is what it would be I hope the bores have not been damaged buddy I have Friday pm off work so if you need any help gis a shout mate
Big end gone
dont forget when you buy them they only come in single 1/2 shells so to do the engine you need 4 not 2 and are colour coded to big ends and crank
and if big end gone you need to def check the oil pump to see if its still pumping oil around engine
best of luck
When my top end went on the Vthou it only took the bottom end with it due to the circlip going and taking the bore out. Mind you it is worth replacing big end shells at the same time.
I think I have an as new oil pump if you want it. No use to me.
Oh dear Johnno, look forward to seeing a happy 1100 Sport soon, x
[QUOTE=guzzibear]When doing it back
- use coppergrease or better I have some aircraft quality stuff if y want it . NOT coppergrease but easiest way to describe it.[/QUOTE]Duralac is IMHO the best jointing compound/corrosion inhibitor around for exposed conditions - especially when dissimilar materials are involved. Relatively expensive, (around £14 a tube delivered IIRC, but it’ll go a long way), it does the job and then some.http://www.llewellyn-ryland.co.uk/downloads/duralac.pdf
As i said I have tubes of this stuff bought as a job lot easiest way to describe it is “coppergrease” as it resembles it BUT is aircraft quality for use on aircraft and I figure if i stops corrosion on the airfarme alloy and the s/s and dissimilar metals in aircraft engines then the bike should be no problem, as used at Rolls Royce…
Thanks ken but money means this will be no quick rebuild
need anything Aquablasting heads barrels heads etc
to bring it nice and clean let me know