1100 noise

Got a good one here ,out riding 1100 sport “96” carb model.Was giving it some when all of a sudden i get alot of tappet noise .Got home and was 100% sure i would find on the left hand cylinder one of the adjusters had come undone.All was ok and i rechecked settings and all was ok .The bike starts up easy and revs out but i still have a tapping noise .Going to do a compression test before i strip out push rod and check .Not much to go on but if anyone as an idea shout up ,a few people have heard the noise and without me saying anything to them all say left hand tappets ,but all agree they are set correct .many thanks

couldn’t be a valve seat loose in the head?

Dunno about the 1100 sport BUT when this rattle happened on the V thou (did it 2x) first was a tiny chip in the exhaust valve compression test will show that up. the second time it was the small end rattling, happened more under any load sounded like loud tappets . Hey it is a fairly easy job to get the head off buddy worth having a look see, …tip get all the gaskets you need before hand that way it will take less than half a day to get the head off should you need to.

I can always pop and help you buddy I have the V11 and the 850-1000 manuals and the engine, apart from FI is the same as V11 mate.

thanks 4 replies.Ken you and Tim have both said what ive been thinking after checking valve settings .Going to do compression test sometime this week and start from there.Ken i mean this in a nice way but you and Tim will both be over ,i dont have guzzis to sit in me garage

Norra problemo mate not at all It is not a big job to get to the tappets then head and barrel off if needs must a hell of alot easier than doing a clutch bud…

As always when y can’t actually see or hear the noise it is all speculation from on here…

By the way have you checked the obvious…like loose exhaust AND if you have the colostomy collector box just take that off give it a shake as when my baffles worked loose it sounded like hte engine was falling apart…sounds daft but sat on the bike I could NOT tell where it was comming from Mark sussed it, took it off shook it oh yeah it rattled all right …cured it with a Stucchi X over got THAT from Twiggers he sometimes has some very nice bits hanging around… guzzibear2013-02-24 19:50:29

Ken i wish it was that kind of rattle,mine is inside engine .

Without hearing it MY bet is on worn little end …not as sure about the newer enging BUT the 1000 cc one had gudgeon pin circlip let go it tramlined the bore yet STILL hussled back from the V Twin loaded with no loss of power AND compression check was all good …when I took the barrel off the rings fell apart…ooops… I would not ride it till you check it buddy.

If the rattle was LOUDER on acceleration, noticably, then it is more than likely top end.

Guzziology acknowleges the gudgeon pin circlip issue and suggests new ones any time the head/barrels come off…alot cheaper than new barrels/pistons and rings I can tell you.

At the very least it is pinking due to carb out one side I have to run the V11 Le Mans on super unleaded to avoid that

Ken , im thinking small end ,is there a oil way from crank to top of conrod that will need a blow out. Is it worth doing a oil pressure test?i will be looking at bike this wkend .I might give you a shout if i have any doubts but i have already dont a strip down and rebuild in me head .

Oil pressure test won’t really show anything up and to be honest I found they can be all good on a compression test, mine was. You have to bite the bullet me ol’ china and whip the head off then look dahn them there big 'Oles wot the piston flies up and down in.

Trick I leaned for to check valves is to then whith the head off pop a bit of fuel into the upturned head the valves will be shut and you will see if it seeps through the seats.

If you are gonna take the barrel off get a set of base and head gaskets AND the sets of tiny neoprene rings that sit at the top and bottom of the pushrod 'oles, BEFORE ya go ripping it apart as that way it will all go back together, worth getting some Gudgeon pin circlips and replacing them even if all IS good according to Dave Richardson, a job to always do every time the engine comes apart, be glad to pop over n help you with it mate. no probs just call me to let me know.

Going from the OP, this still sounds like summink ‘broke’ when was given some welly, and it’s stayed ‘broke’, so I’m with Ken need to have a proper butchers inside, can’t keep speculating from the outside I’m afraid. I’m not aware of any models that have an oilway up the con-rod, (that would make it too weak woudn’t it?) small end is lubricated by ‘splash’ (what’s chucked out of the big-ends I think). Ditto the barrel. There’s likely an oil hole in the centre of the small-end though. HTH

On the V1000 there IS an 'ole in the small end yeah…

I wasn’t seeing things then

many thanks ,im quite looking forward to getting to know my bike better,strip down starts saturday

Please let us know how it goes We want regular reports

Ayup Johnno, just read your post out to Guy and his initial reaction was cam follower, is noise half engine speed ? Barrel off anyway, x.guykate2013-03-03 12:54:09

sump dropped oil looks ok but there is a speck of colouring on the brass / silver side .The allen key bolt in head is stopping play at the moment ,ive never met such a tight bolt . Got impact drive to keep tapping it and penetrating oil for a few days then have another go at it .it could be good news or it could be very bad news ,we will have to wait and see

Is that one of the thump with hammer impact drivers if its any use to you i have a Millwalkee 28volt battery driver just need to know what size allen key your using if any use to you

If it is the blanking plug that gives access to the rear head bolt and is really well in Guy usually orders same then chisels it out ! Sounds a bit extreme but lowers blood pressure, yours not the bikes !
If you need owt, let us know, x

I was speaking to you about this at Branch meet these plugs are tight they have a rubber seal ring around them Soooooo some heat, I used and electric heat gun then long bar and a good quality allen key and the trick is constant pressure they then just do slowly come away.

Before you hit it with an impact driver and rip the hex to bits try the heat onto it, IF you have a blow torch even better OR even a smapp propane type torch every time I have had to undo one of these it is the heat of the engine that has glued the neoprene/rubber seal once THAT is heated up and off it will come away

the plug came out easy but under there is the head bolt,all others have been undone but then retightened to ease pressure on just one bolt
johnno2013-03-03 17:35:44