Hi all, has anyone had experience of removing the sump on a 1400 California? A previous mechanic managed to strip the drain plug thread. I’m amazed that it did not leak oil. I have the correct M10X1.5 Helicoil kit but removing the sump looks like it involves removal of exhausts, silencers, footboards, rear brake master cylinder, lower sub frame and a load of other small ancillaries. Are there any short cuts or other time saving tricks. cheers Phil
If you’re on griso ghetto then Bettle has a 1400, so may be able to answer.
Otherwise is it not the same as the 1200’s
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Hi Brian, unfortunately the frame is very different to Norges, Stelvios etc. I know the sump is easy to remove on a Stelvio but the California looks a very different kettle of fish. I’ve been on the Guzzitech site and it looks like the lower game section needs to be removed. I’ve got the workshop manual but that deals in detail with engine removal but doesn’t cover sump removal as a separate subject. I have a feeling I’m going to have to dive in deep tomorrow. Maybe I’ll do a write up and take photos for a Gambalunga article. Cheers Phil
Hi Phil
The Guzzitek has workshop manuals and parts books for the 1400 models, hopefully that will tell you what you need to do.
https://www.guzzitek.org/gb/accueil_gb.htm
Page 271 on this link
Thanks Don. I have the workshop manual but it doesn’t give details of a “sump only” removal, just a full engine removal. I’ll work on the bike today and let you know how much of the bike needs to taken apart to get the sump off. It is going to be a huge amount of work to fix a simple problem. The sump plug washer is of the Dowty type and doesn’t need to be over tightened. Cheers Phil
This happens a lot, traditionally Guzzi sump and gearbox drains usually have very short threads. Despite that they rarely leak until stripped. They use soft aluminium washers that should be re-annealed before re-use (a dowty washer is a reasonable substitute).
See this re the 1400 engine Wildguzzi 1400 oil drain strip the OP ‘Lucian’ lists and photographs what he had to remove .
Apparentlly the 1400 has a deeper thread than the length of the drain bolt but imho the drains should never be tightened to the torque figures that Moto Guzzi give for that diameter bolt.
FYI 'Guzzi tech, is moderated by a guy selling stuff so he does delete or ban posts recommending solutions he does not sell
Hi Phil, I replaced the clutch on my previous 1400 so I’ve been in fairly deep on these motors but don’t recall dropping the sump. The first thing you’ll need to address is keeping the bike upright once the bottom frame rails (and side stand) are removed. Do you have a paddock stand for the front wheel?
You’re correct in assuming the exhaust will have to come off & I would also remove the oil cooler to allow easier access to the fan switch on the front of the sump. All in all it’s not a difficult job. But still a frustrating amount of work just to repair the drain plug.
Jon
Is it not possible to repair the thread with the sump in situ? I guess there might be a problem with swarf getting into the sump… I’ll get me coat 
i think time-sert is a stronger repair than helicoils.
Hi all, thanks for the comments. The job is done. Lower subframe was unbolted and dropped onto wooden blocks. Dumped removed as per all other 8 Valve motors. Thread repaired with Helicoil insert. Perfect for the job. The job was done with the front wheel in a wheel clamp. The lower sun frame does nothing except support the rest engine mount and footboards so nothing else needs to be supported. All put back together and motor up and running. Tomorrow the challenge is rear wheel removal and rear drive box oil change. Servicing these beasts is not for the faint hearted is it? Cheers Phil
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Think yourself lucky its not one of those massive Harleys, it took three of us plus two hydraulic jacks and many blocks of wood, to lift the engine out of a mates road king !!
me I like small slim lithe bikes for that reason !!
plus its easier to pick up when I drop it !!
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Rear removal nos as challenging as first thought. The use of a hydraulic engine hoist made lifting the back end of the bike a doddle. The wheel was not as heavy as expected. Rear drive oil draining and refilling a quick and simple job. (Why Moto Guzzi made it such a mission is anyone’s guess.) I also notice that the recommended oil change interval on the Stelvio is every 10000kms but the California is every 50000kms! I suspect the internals are very similar (no internal parts are listed in the spares book!) does anyone out there have more insight into this? Cheers Phil
I think it’s 60,000 km for the new V7 850’s, which I think is barking mad. Take a zero off! I wouldn’t like to let it go to 10,000 even.
Quick topic deviation - a channel I follow on YouTube is an engine machining shop and rebuild service (for cars). They had one come in that had ‘done a big-end’, it’s one of the Ingenium range of V6’s, I think (and which are making a bad reputation for themselves). It’s come out of a Jaguar that the owner bought new for £90,000. First service is - get this - 21,000 miles or 2 years, whichever occurs sooner. Owner doesn’t drive it that much so decided to wait for the 21,000 m, which was nearly 3 years by that time. The oil had turned to black sludge with lumps in it (we were shown it on video). Jaguar/LandRover didn’t want to know as warranty expired. Can’t get parts for a rebuild, as all on back-order.(?) Long story later, which includes him approaching another company saying they can rebuild it and they can get the parts from Germany (but how, since our man on YT has good dependable suppliers and they can’t ) and they want the whole car, not just the engine. But the engine is already removed, upon learning this they don’t like that for some reason so the quote went up an extra 2 or 3 grand. (!)
Our man on YT says don’t do that, this is becoming a bit of a common problem apparently, and sadly, companies saying give us the whole vehicle, they have the engine out and completely to bits, then want to charge a lot more than the original quote to put it back together.
Turns out the simplest and cheapest option is get what’s called a short block, or short motor, which is an assembled crankcase/block with crankshaft and pistons etc. already installed. (A complete motor is also ‘not available’.) Even so this is about £4000 I think, but, all that’s needed is to swap all the good bits from the original motor onto it. I think it’s still ongoing!
<end of deviation>
This may sound daft but I’ve done it. If you have a pile of concrete blocks about I usually do then lying them in a line four deep makes a sort of workbench once the bike is on its stand removing various blocks gives access to back wheel sump other odd bits, the downside
Moving blocks but cheap 
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Ratt that sounds hardcore-Guzzi 