1400 first service dealer feedback

Interesting read and will be useful for interim home servicing as the years roll on

Have fun

Useful. Thx

Really good service report. Don’t like the fact that the rear wheel has to be removed to change the bevel box fluids, unessasary complication especially as the article in grumblemonger points out what a pain in the arse job that is on the 1400, on a touring bike i expect wheel removal to be easy. Many bikers consider a service to be oil and filter only, i have said to local dealers that they should produce a tick list of everything that should be done at a service with the associated labour charges for each job and ask the owner to tick the jobs they want done because so many bikes never get serviced properly.


Is there not such a list in the service handbook?

There is of course i just think some owners need reminding and maybe the dealers could make a bit more.


As well as the costs of the service and consumables the total cost of ownership should really be checked before buying. This is something I always say I’ll do but so far haven’t. By this I mean checking out the costs of tyres, batteries and bits that are likely to be highly expensive such as ecu’s, abs controllers and sensors, any bits that might need replacing after a drop etc etc. I started making a list when I bought my last van. The idea is to submit it to the salesman and have it filled in before you buy it. Pie in the sky I suppose.

I have never bought a bike that cold bloodedly.
It’s normally been I want it, I can afford to buy it, I buy it.
Insurance, tax and running costs come later.
That said I have always serviced my own bikes once out of warranty.
However for what was done the cost seems very reasonable.

We haven’t got to the same stage as mainstream motor car servicing (yet) with bikes.

As a rule, a bike which has covered less heat cycles over the same mileage would need less maintenance than one that has covered more. The obvious example is long distance vs. short distance commuter bikes. In the car world, the hidden Nazi inside the ECU monitors the type of use the car is exposed to and pings up a message on the dash, with marching orders to the local main dealer. This might be just for an oil change, or just for a filter change, or both, or a combination of this and a brake check etc.

Most diligent bike owners are already taking this same approach using our own common sense. So, when we suck our teeth on hearing the complexity of specific tasks on specific bikes, perhaps we should stand back and review how often these really need to be done?

By the way, this doesn’t excuse the designer of the 1400 responsible for ensuring it takes a full day to remove and replace a rear wheel! I read that in Gambalunga so it must be true :smiley:


Must have been the same half wit that designed the V7 Stone then. Remove an exhaust and loosen the shock, pull the axle and watch all the wee fart arse rubbers fall out of the bevel box. Repeat the last bit whilst trying to re-assemble. I dont like single exhausts on the V twins but that presentation does hold a certain attraction.

Yeah, I enjoyed this moment replacing the wheels on the B750. After the event, I read of a simple method to halve the time - use double sided tape to hold the cush drive rubbers in place :unamused: :smiley: !

On the plus side, it does ensure the various mounting bolts at the rear end are less likely to seize over the years. Glad the lil’ Breva has a centrestand, too.


This is the bogs dollox for those cush drive sodettes…

The rear wheel is indeed a sod to remove on the Cali 1400!
I gave up and took my bike and tyre to Teasdales in Thirsk. No hassle for me, its one of my ‘commutes’. Only took them an hour while i scoffed lunch nearby, and only charged 20 quid…mind, i have spent some dosh there so maybe they did me a good deal.
Next tyre was fitted during service so not sure on fitting charge that time.
Due another rear (4th in 18k) soon…will have rear bevel oil changed while wheel is off…though book says no need till 50k kms.

Oils and filters done at home…easy enough. Tappets to set tomorrow .
NB. Original filter needs 76mm 12 flute cup socket…available replacement needed 76 x 8 flute cup.
Only one 17mm sump drain rear of sump plate…and that pours out onto crossmember then floor/sleeve/armpit. Joy!!!

Not as easy as V7…but that’s what i expected with such a lump. Worth the hassle to me for the pleasure of the ride.

Just a quick note re the California oil filter. It is not the standard 76mm with 8 or 12 flutes but instead has 12 semi circular longitudinal “indentations”. I think you will find that the normal fluted tool will not fit. I made up a tool by modifying a three legged filter removal tool. the modification being the reworking of the legs to approximately 5mm diameter so that they grip three of the 12 indentations.
As for lifting the California onto axle stands placed under the pillion footrests, I think you will find this is not a practical solution at all.
It looks to me like the Clarke jack under the sump will lift the bike (maybe it can be made to lift on the two lower frame members and thereby give good access to the filter and drain) Ill post a sketch when i need to make one. I think the front wheel and brake will need to be secured to prevent the bike rolling forward. (I cant imagine having to lift up a fallen California!).