Until recently my trusty 2007 4 valve Norge has run reliably. However around a month ago it developed a fault that at present is preventing me from riding it. Has anyone suffered and cured a fault like I am about to describe and what caused the fault.? On the ride home from its MOT (Ironic because it passed) the engine appeared to start running on one cylinder before coming to a halt whenever I shut the throttle for corners, junctions and the like. It would quickly start up on two cylinders only to stop running again on the approach to the next junction etc. I have some diagnostic software so I connected my lap top to the dignostic port and found new fault showing up it was P0351 Coil - to high. So I wondered if the left hand coil had developed a defect. However when running the engine on just the right had cylinder sparks from the left hand plug would jump over an inch to get to the engine. More recently the defect has worsened and the engine falters and stops within a hundred or so yards of setting off. Most recently I have had it running it on each cylinder with the other spark plug removed. Both cylinders behave in the same fashion, namely they run for a few seconds then stop. This leads me to think it is a common component such as something in the fuel system. I have seen posts relating to the fuel filter in the tank falling apart causing loss of fuel pressure in early model Norges and wonder if my issue is something along similar lines. Your thoughts and suggestions would be most welcome.
Sounds like itâs a wasted spark system. (?) Both cylâs fired simultaneously.
The fuel filter falling apart, I think, but Iâm not an expert - either, a hose blowing off inside the tank, or the filter housing has a plastic half which is supposed to swell and split (altho I have not read any posts where someone was able to yes it happened to me - just itâs swollen up and âlooks dodgyâ).
If either happened the bike would not run at all, because no fuel pressure.
The âPâ code is a generic code, I found this web page about it -
Code P0351: Meaning, Causes, Fixes, FAQs
Note the section âSymptomsâ
I thought that the dodgy split material fuel filters were long ago removed from use, easy enough to look in the tank with a torch, its either all alloy, or alloy and plastic
where abouts in the country are you ?
Raphael, thank you for your reply. You maybe right and it had been replaced before i bought the bike but if not the filter hasnt been looked at in the last 9 years.
I am in South Wales.
@GrahamS -Whilst I appreciate you are in South Wales (a long way from Surrey) you could try an email or phone call to Baldricks Workshop (a true legend in the MG world) for diagnosing and remedying all things Guzzi:
baldricks@hotmail.co.uk
07536 116 176
Thank you Paul, I have Emailed Baldricks to see if they can offer me any guidance from afar.
Could it be the ignition phase sensor that is failing as that controls when the spark happens via the ECU.
Hello everyone. I think I have found the answer to my problem and its not the bike that is at fault. This we took the fuel injectors out (incredibly easy job) and watched them spraying what should have been fuel. However it didnât smell like fuel at all. When we syphoned the fuel out of the tank we found that large percentage of it was in fact water. No idea how so much of it got in there. I am doing some other work on the bike, so havenât put it back together to run it yet but with a very strong spark and fuel injectors doing their stuff I am confident that the contaminated fuel is behind the strange symptoms. I will post again once it is running. The fuel filter is indeed the original half plastic Austrian item, with the plastic end bulging nicely so it is going to be replaced before I attempt to start the bike again.
have you got two holes just inside the filler cap ?
usually one is to let air in and balance the pressure, the lower one is a drain
however the rubber pipes beneath the tank can rot or get blocked, and the metal pipe in the tank can also block up
I use an airline on mine on a regular basis to clear it
Fingers crossed for you @GrahamS that this is a simple cause and easy fix! You may wish to use a bit of SeaFoam mixed with your fuel to ensure the whole system from tank to exhaust is cleaned through. I add SeaFoam to my 1995 VFR750 on every fill to ensure the carbs stay clean and on more modern fuel injected engines every 5 or 6 fills. I also only use Esso Synergy Supreme.
E10 seems to attract water unless you run through tankfulâs regularly; E5 not so bad, The drain for the filler cap usually blocks where the screw in spigot is under the tank, I drilled it out larger but it still blocks.
UPDATEâŚ
Having seen Brian Dillamoreâs advice I upturned the fuel tank and checked the connector that screws into the bottom of the tank only to find it was blocked solid with a yellowish crystalline substance that had to be drilled out. As it was drilled out quite a lot of water drained out. Clearly the blocked connector and the E10 fuel ganged up on me to contaminate the fuel. Had the bike running on the bench a couples of days ago and all seems much better.
I decided to strip the bottom end of the suspension whilst the bike was in parts. All the bearings were shot and rusty so I have ended up buying a new âDouble connecting rodâ as it comes complete with bearings and spacers. It cost an absolute arm and a leg but at least it avoided what was obviously going to be a tough struggle to replace the needle rollers. Engine oil, Shaft drive bevel box oil and the gearbox oil have all been replaced. One corroded front fork tube will be replaced in the near future along with fork seals and fork oil. The swinging arm and bevel box have been resprayed and the swinging arm bearings may get replaced to. Looking forward to riding my revamped Norge very soon.
Save the seal on the bearing for next time as you can buy the bearing without seals really cheap
Thank you Brian I have just found a local bearing supplier who is getting a pair of bearings in for me (25 x 47 x 17) for the princely sum of ÂŁ9.00 each incl. VAT. A saving of at least ÂŁ100 on the cost of getting from a Guzzi Parts Supplier. I am still not looking forward to fighting them out of the frame though!
There are a couple of âcut outsâ that you can get something on the bearing and from the other side through the frame and tap out - hope that makes sense 
I would like to thank everyone for their support with this query. At least the engine now appears to run OK. The proof of the pudding will be when I get to ride it for a few miles. I have started a separate thread re the Swinging Arm Bearings as I was beginning to go off piste!
Brian, thank you for this picture. As I said in the other feed, I am hoping to encourage the legs of a little two arm puller to fit into these slots. The feet are a little wide and will need to be ground but they are only 2mm thick. Then I shall need to find a way of applying force to them. We shall see what happens.