2007 Norge tickover problems

I’ve just balanced the throttle bodies. I found the left hand adjuster already all the way in and the right about 1 turn out. I closed the right hand adjuster screw as per instructions. Once I had the bike running and up to temp, I could see they were a little way out at 3.5k rpm. The left t/b had a lower vacuum reading than the right and so I had to adjust the screw on the right. I got the balance right at 3.5k, reset the TPS and then set the balance again at tick-over as per instructions.

I’ve been for a ride and the bike feels smoother and like it picks up a bit better, which is good. Not so good is the 1,600 rpm tick over. Not quite sure what to do about that and a spot of googling suggests all sorts of horrific stuff about replacing stepper motors and such.


Is it still doing it?

I was going to say might be worth riding for a bit and see if it settles down. Mine seems to have a mind of its own sometimes with regard to tickover, it was near 1800 rpm for the first couple of miles this morning, then settled back down to the normal 1100. Normally it just goes high for a few seconds after startup.

There is a link between clutch position and tickover speed when you are in gear too, if you let the clutch out slightly the tickover increases to about 1600 automatically, or it does on mine anyway.

There should be a “button” on the computer (Axione, guzzi diag) which allows you to reset the tickover, which is ecu controlled through the stepper motor

Have you managed to sort this problem out or are the revs still staying at around 1600? Is the problem that the revs will drop back to tickover over a period of time (maybe 5 seconds)?

If so

depending on bike:-
To prove your stepper motor is not the problem - this is fiddly, but can be done withlong nosed pliers - disconnect the air hose from the air box to the steeper motor and plug with somethig like a bolt. if you are going to ride around a bit then its worth fitting a small bit of tube back on to the bottom of the air box and blank that.

Is it not the same procedure as the 1200s?

Shut both Bleeds.
Balance the TBs at 3500-4000rpm by adjusting the Link Rod.
Engine off ~ Re-Calibrate TPS.
Restart, and adjust the Bleed on the side with the highest depression by opening the Bleed, until level with the other side.

If everything is working as it should then what you have said is true, but sometimes you can get an issue where the revs will take their time dropping and you get a bike that wants to run away while you are slowing for a junction and you have run through the balancing multiple times.

This is just a way to diagnose an issue.