I have recently bought a 2007 NORGE with 18,000 on the clock and am surprised at the amount of backlash in the transmission.
I read in the blurb that CARC is supposed to make the transmission smooth but I am having great Â difficulty going from over-run to acceleration in the lower speed ranges. Â At high speed the problem vanishes but at Â round town speeds it spoils the riding experience. Â It makes it a sort of ‘on off’ affair with Â quite a harsh take up. The transmission snatch can be felt clearly through the bike and requires intense throttle control to keep it at a minimum
Is this normal? I previously owned a 2009 California Sport Special and have no recollection of the transmission being so harsh.
Brian…our former webmaster and Norge owner mite tell you to take the free play out of the throttle…this snatchiness is something most modern injection guzzis have to greater or lesser degree…some folks fit Power Commanders…940 on here is the creator of the Finebau Forge module with smoothed out the power delivery on our Griso…google Finebau Forge…
The first things to check is that the bolt in the front bush on the torque arm is tight and that there is no wear in the bush, an upgraded version is available ( Pete Brocklehurst did a article about it in Gambalunga this year) next take it into your local Guzzi dealer and get them to load the latest softwear as this can make a big difference to the low speed response of the bike
My Guzzi 1200 CARC doesn’t suffer any noticeable transmission backlash… but it does suffer from fuel injection snatchiness off/on throttle. In fact all Closed Loop running (up to 3,200/3,500) is less than brilliant because in Closed Loop mode the ECU is leaning out the fuel mix to the max based on readings from the Lambda exhaust gas sensors.
The cause is Euro 3 emission requirements and the issue affects many bike engines of this vintage. I have not tried to solve the issue myself but fitting a resistor to change the output from the Lamda sensor is a common idea - the Finebau Forge is suggested above - although it is only fair to mention there are other devices doing similar things such as BoosterPlug from Denmark. You may find this device improves the situation rather than cures totally since the ‘fix’ is bit of a ‘fudge’, and some also claim Euro3 bikes switch off the fuel flow totally on the over-run leading to a ‘dry’ intake when the throttle is opened. Please report back on the results of the Lambda adjustor if you go that route - I’ve never heard anyone say it makes things worse.
Plan B is keep the throttle pinned, FI runs Open Loop straight from the fuel map at WOT
My 2006 Norge is quite snatchy going off-on throttle. I fitted a Finebau Forge box and whilst I think it makes things better I can’t live with the ‘Service’ warning on the dash so it’s been switched off for the last year.
I now just ride around the problem by slipping the clutch very slightly on slow corners and tend to open the throttle earlier on slightly quicker corners ( I ride through the corner on an open throttle rather than waiting for the apex).
I had the same problem on my last bike (4-cylinder BMW) and a re-map of the injection made it quicker but no better on the snatchiness. I recently dropped my Norge in a ford (the wet ones, not the car) so I picked up a 1999 VFR800 to use on holiday while the Norge is repaired, and that’s about the same in the snatchiness department.
No matter how snatchy it may be, I’m still missing my Guzzi!
I think I am learning to live with the snatchiness on mine (1200 Sport 2v). It tends not to bother me on roads I know, but can be a real pain on tight hairpins for example. I got the torque arm bush thingy changed for the newer type but it made no difference. I am reluctant to try the finebau forge thing owing to the issue you mention and the feeling that I don’t want to mess with the ignition.
I bought a new Norge in 2008. The CARC backlash is huge compared to any of my other Guzzis even my old V7 that’s done 145,000 miles. A lambda sensor fooler works to give a smoother engine and yes you have to put up with a warning on the dash every so often. It’s definitely an improvement. It doesn’t cure the backlash of course which you just have to drive around. What does improve the ride is the modified torque arm front bush though and I would recommend that.
I had a test ride on a Breva which had this problem - the torque arm bush was responsible, according to the dealer. It wasn’t helped by the fact that it was the first FI bike I had ever ridden - felt like a learner, kangarooing along the road!