750T/V65 etc al torque settings?

Technical Small Block V Twins (not new V7s)
1

Hi All,

I realise that this question has been asked before, but there doesn’t seem to a good reference point, so here goes….

Does anyone have a definitive set of torque settings for the 750T/V65/V50 range of bikes?

I have all of the workshop manuals and addenda, Guzziology (latest), the documents provided by Greg Bender and co in the US, and have made extensive web research, but I still cant find any authoritative list. I have the front end off of the 750T at present, in order to replace the fork stanchions and fork seals, but I cant even find a figure for tightening the brake callipers!

When I disassembled the front end the callipers were only done up to around 10Nm, which I found quite worrying to be honest. Surely the figure should higher than that?

For interest, here are my amassed settings that I have either measured on undoing, taken from workshop manuals, or found in other places. One or two might be reasoned guesses, but I’d be very glad of any feedback in the form of more correct figures:

Fork brace 5mm Allen key 10Nm, 4x 10mm o-rings above and 4x below the 4 steel inserts

Air pressure balancing hose at fork tops, 11mm spanner, finger tight with small spanner.

Fork cap nut 30mm socket, 70Nm

Top yoke to fork leg 8mm Allen, 35Nm (maybe 40?)

Bottom yoke to fork leg 17mm socket, 35Nm (maybe 40?)

Headlamp bracket to fork leg, 6mm Allen key, 10Nm

  • mounted 30mm above lower yoke “chrome” trim piece

Front axle clamp bolt, 1 per leg 8mm Allen - 40Nm

Oil drain bolt, two alloy washers, 5mm Allen, 10Nm

Damper securing bolt, with steel washer and o-ring; base of the fork, 8mm Allen, very very tight, maybe 90Nm. Replaced at 50Nm.

Front wheel axle nut 24mm socket, 80Nm.

Front brake calliper mounting bolts, 22 Nm.

Cheers, Bob

2

A couple of updates. Front axle wheel nut 80Nm, and caliper mount torque is apparently 2.2 to 2.4 Kgm, which is equivalent to around 22 Nm.

3

The only time I ever get a torque wrench out is for a cylinder head. Just use common sense. small bolts small spanner so you can’t overtighten them. Large bolts big spanner, equals more torque. Be more careful when screwing into alloy.

2 Likes
4

Hi,
Have you got the Standard Values table which gives the torque according to the fastener size?

5

I’ve managed to find one such table in the Nevada 750 / 750- Club workshop manual, which I downloaded online. That is Guzzi product number COD 31.92.01.83, and was published in June 2002. It lists just 5 specific screw sizes with their thread pitch, but at least the units used are in Nm :slight_smile: . There are many more torque values in that manual than in the V35/50 workshop and 750 Addendum, which I’m glad to see, and I would base some of my choices on those, where applicable. The problem is that some of the fasteners on my 750T are not of those sizes, or they use a different pitch. So I shall continue to compile my list and adjust where and when necessary.

Cheers, Bob

6

Hi @Don-Spada,

I know where you’re coming from, and I too would use appropriate sized tools where needed. However, this is only my second Guzzi in 40+ years of riding and spannering , and the first one (Lario 650) was many years ago now. My other current bikes are 2006 and 2022 KTMs and the manuals for them specify torque, threadlock, and sealant as required for every nut, bolt and screw on the bike. For me that leads to a more confident approach when working on the bike.

One of the main problems with not having a list of tested/approved torque settings is that of the quality, knowledge and experience of previous owners. My 750T has had 8 previous owners, some of whom may have been proficient with tools, but it seems that at least 1 was not, judging by what I’ve found and rectified so far. This is an issue that affects all vehicles and owners, but many/most manufacturers mitigate some of these kinds of problem by publishing useful information, like extensive torque value lists.

I think that Guzzi are catching up with this, as the newer manuals are far better. Also of course, I bought an ‘old’ bike to fix up, so I’m not stressed if I make a mistake :wink: , however much I’d like to avoid them. Thankfully I’m retired now, so I don’t have to have the bike back on the road to go to work tomorrow or Monday!

Cheers, Bob

1 Like