Hi
Just starting a rewire on my 850T5,whilst I am on with it I thought I might replace the standard regulator and rectifier with a newer combined unit.Anybody out there done similar or could recommend a particular unit,or which type I realy need,preferably want one with a charging warning signal,as I believe some replacement types don’t have that facility.
Thanks Ted
I got mine, when I had the Le Mans re-wired from Electrex World -they are very good and helpful and useful for me just 3 miles from where I live, but they do do mail order -speak to them and they should be able to advise which one is suitable for a T5:http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/
to be honest after 34 yrs and many many miles never had a problem with the Bosch unit bud and the cost of the replacement ones are …an awful lot of dosh, …you can get uprated ones from Police issue bikes …BMW fit a very similar altenator, reg, rectifier must also be similar
OK thanks for that,I will contact electrex and see what the cost is,if they are expensive I may leave as is until one or the other dies.Don’t suppose you know what the 80 ohm resistor is for in the wiring between the rectifier and the fuse box,and will I still need it if I upgrade to a new reg/rec.
This 'un is it? I’m after getting one of these as well as I’m also thinking of rewiring, would make the job a lot easier by including this:
http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/rr45-regulator-rectifier-713-0.html
Edit: it’s the RR45 ~ found it via a BMW forum ~ I originally started with looking for electronic regulators lol
Mike H2011-11-29 20:33:32
here y go
these are reccomended too
OK thanks for replies,just ordered all wiring,connectors etc from vehicle wiring products.Hopefully it will be a success,I’ll let you know how I get on.
Cheers Ted
If you re do the altenator wires make sure you use heat proof wire and connectors it gets very hot in there, and also check there is a spacer …plastic ring, behind the altenator cover it spaces it out and allows more cool air in, if not get one it does make a huge difference.
OLDER Tonit bikes came without this spacer and, as happened to mine it melted the altenator connectors. It is an easy mod and one often missed well worthwhile
Ok thanks for that,yes it does have the spacer so that will be going back in.So far so good,replaced all wiring and connected up to fuse box and end users,moved coils under tank and ignition switch down r/h side.Just got to connect everything up in headlight,using some yamaha switch gear so hopefully will be a lot neater.Fingers crossed when I turn on the power.
Hi I put a copy of yam-Guzzi wiring in frequently asked qns
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Moto Guzzi Club GB Forum : Technical : Frequently Asked Questions
Topic: Replacement switchgear wiring
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guzzibear
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Topic: Replacement switchgear wiring
Posted: 19 Aug 2011 at 12:39
this is from my notes:
From my notes the Yam wiring is as follows:-
Horn= Pink
Earth = black
Right turn =Dark Green
Turn common = Brown/white
Left turn = Dark Brown
High beam = Yellow
Flash = red/yellow
Dip = light Green
Light common = Blue/Black
On My G V1000 the Guzzi wires are:
Horn= white/black
earth=blk
right turn=grey/red
turn comm=brown with a tag on it
Left turn=green /black
High beam=Greyor slate
flash=grey/black
Dip=Light green
light common=blue/black
I have a Triumph switch that is as follows
horn= Black with 2 grey trace
earth=Brown/black with 2 grey trace
right turn=light blue 2 grey trace
turn comm=grey 2slate trace
Left turn=orange
High beam=blue with slate tracex2 these must be joined as org had twin headlamps
Flash= Red/Black
Dip=white Grey
Comm Light =Blue white
i hope this helps
Ken
I have copied NW on this but I do NOT have the lights on off on the left it has been transposed to the right hand bars so those wires you will have to figure out there is a web site with alt switchgear wiring on it it may be carl allisons site but not sure if i find out any more i will let you know.
You can test functions by using a meter if you get the comm turn the left and right will be apparrent. you can do the same with main and dip and flash
The dodgy one is the horn as it will blow a fuse if you get it wrong. lol
You can call me if yu have proba BBB has my Number
Edited by guzzibear - 10 Aug 2008 at 18:41
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guzzibear2011-12-09 11:08:10
If you want to bring your fullcharge in earlier it is the police type regulator you want. Available from the usual people.
Pretty sure that isn’t how it works, I’ve made an in-depth study of these things on and off over the years, and as it just so happens just recently made a LTspice simulation of this very same Bosch charging system.
The regulator is basically a glorified relay, it starts off as normally on, but turns off the rotor winding current when Volts go “too high”, then it switches on and off very fast to hold the mean average rotor winding current at whatever value necessary to maintain the set output as somewhat greater than battery Volts (else won’t charge it); the mark-space ratio of the on versus off time periods depends on load (quite a lot like, pulse width modulation). If the rotor isn’t turning fast enough to start with you still won’t get “earlier charging” cos that isn’t how it works, with the “uprated” e.g. police type what you will actually get instead is a higher Voltage offset for when it starts turning off (compared against battery Volts), which means the battery charging current is higher, but only if the generator can produce output higher than battery Volts. I.e. you still need the revs then. Also you may expect to have to check and top up battery level more often, because of the higher charging current “boiling away” the water.
Nothing is straightforward! And there’s no “magic wand”
@ GB wow you quoted an entire formatted post
Shouldnt happen if the regulator works properly, even with a higher output alternator it should still regulate at the same voltage.
If I recall Guzzi have fitted at least 2 different output Bosch altenators to Guzzis and there is a higher one available,
I guess for Police use I dunno, with slight modification a BMW altenator will fit, I got one many years ago alot cheaper than a Guzzi one 2nd hand and higher output, it runs the extra lighting and fog/spots no problem,
A friend who fitted spots to his Cali 3 had the engine die when he switched them on …
I thought the Bosch alternators were the same fitting for BMW and Guzzi.
They are a very similar part number BUT the fitting “ring” at the bottom of the stator needs filing down very carefully to fit in the Guzzi housing, the one I got from a place in the Fens “Motobins” (If I remember correctly) was a higher output as well as being less than, at that time Guzzi wanted for brushes and holders , I was then very skint so I bought the BMW one and filed the fitting it has worked well for 20+ yrs
Bmw stators are 107mm moto guzzi stators are 105mm in diameter
Also do the higher output adjustable regulators
http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product_p/vr-ext-fslash-adj.htm
it was not that difficult to file down the fitting ring on the stator to fit to the V1000 , and it has been in there now for 20+ years…
Must be right because I fitted the higher o/p regulator in '97 and haven’t noticed any increase in topping up the bty.
It also lead to my having to charge the bty less often (I was riding to work on it, a whole 2.2 miles) and most of my mileage was low speed, low revs and not much distance.
But an even greater influence is to keep that multi earth under the bty clean and bright.