Before I’ve even got the bike near a road, the 15pin block connector under the tank has managed to nearly seperate, loosing quite a few circuits. I can imagine the fun it must be during an interupted ride at the side of the road sorting out this problem must be. So, any foolproof tips how to stop this happening? I can’t really see how a cable tie could be applied without rubbing away at the wires. Answers on a postcard please.
if the securing clip is broken i have in the pasr used a strand of the green plastic coated gardening wire a lot thinner than a cable tie
or dependant on skill and equipment a tiny self tapper each side
or a bit of blue tack or similar on the male bit push it together to tighten it up
or a cable tie around the outside of the female then insert male part and nip the clip up
or just a little screw between the male and female once assembled
or are the cables to tight and actually pulling apart
I found some silicone basic bathroom sealant around the surface keeps them together .These blocks have a habit of being ok for yrs then all of a suddink they come apart and cause mayhem. I redo mine once evry 12-18 months.
I have a tube of silione sealant it is a small one for automotive use. I have found it well worth having I use it for:-
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sealing electrikery connctors the 12W 15w and some 3 way ones and the RiTa connector, it got mousture in it and caused gremlins
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A very VERY thin smear on any engine or alloy surface prior to fitting any oil seals…saves doing it again.
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I had an annoying weep of oil on the sump after putting the extended sump and oil filter on the 850 engine, thin smear sorted it, the down side of that is it can rip the gasket when redoing it, but it works
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I have even sealed an exhaust leak with the stuff …which surprised me but it worked.
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Used on the windshield trim, far better than glue, more pliable and sticky without being immovable.
No doubt there are more useful uses.guzzibear2013-02-12 12:00:35
You could replace the connector body. Try http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/connectors/multiconnectors.php
Mate-N-lock connectors, you can extract your pins and sockets from the original plastic body using a thin walled tube that just fits over the pin (or socket) so compressing the tags that hold them in place in the plastic body. Draw a picture of both sides first so you know where to put them back!
Any dodgy connections can be replaced with new pins/socketsChris950s2013-02-12 14:31:27
Yes Mate-N-Lok have a catch hooks system. Hence the ‘lok’ part of the name
Thanks for the replies to all above.I’m sure that out of the above list I’ll find a solution, and there are a few I would not have thought of.Chris, I have a “tool” for removing the connectors and so the mate n lock might be the best solution, but tomorrow when it’s a bit warmer I’ll return to the garage and have another look.Thanks again.
I have replaced my OEM connectors with Mate n Lock they still will come apart after months of use for no aparrent reason, hence the silicone trick .
Save y self loads of hassle unplugging and such and simply get a good contact cleaner, do that then try some silicone apply and leave…alot less hassle than the replacement …been there done that.
Mmmm. I suppose I have nothing to loose just applying silicone, but what I can’t understand is that they seem to have no locking mechanism unless mine are all just mismatched i.e. on one pair, they have arms on but are both the same and so wont interlock although on the other there is a raised tag which interlocks with holes in the other plug? Pictures below with the locating /carrying plate removed.
ReggieV2013-02-16 15:02:41
To be fair If my memory is correct the mate n lock kinda didn’t work in the back of the headlamp which is why I used the silicone, by the way you have to make sure the plastic is really clean, I used one of those paint prep cloths
Worth trying an easier fix and it keeps the damp out I also tried a locking wire but not as good as the silicone with your connectors being “loose” I would pop silicone and push them together then a very thin zip tie around the block
Those are for locking into a cut-out hole in a metal plate. Standard ones have nothing to hold them together as far as I know, just rely on ‘friction’. If coming apart are you sure the cables are not being pulled? Hasn’t happened to me TBH.
I found that mine sit happily for literally years then start to pull apart, no reason they just do, and once it happens it does so regularly hence I tried many solutions, the Silicone works but will eventually for no reason fail…
There should be no reason they all of a sudden get “pulled” go figure …cos I can’t
Mike H wrote; Those are for locking into a cut-out hole in a metal plate.The picture I took is with the metal plate removed. I had previously had the bottom plug from the loom located in the plate and I suppose that turning the steering could pull the plug apart with the movement. What I shall do with this one is locate the front plug from the idiot lights in the plate to stop it pulling away, and the loom from the bike (with a bit of silicone) should be fairly static in theory.The top plug does have two small plastic lugs that “resist” the plugs coming apart. I’ll silicone this too. Thanksfor the suggestions.guzzibear wrote; I have even sealed an exhaust leak with the stuff …which surprised me but it worked.I’ve used silicone for this purpose too to good effect.
ReggieV2013-02-16 21:49:45
Yes looking at it afterward one has thingies for clipping into a plate, but the other’s got - er - something else, what it was originally designed to latch onto I’ve no idea however.