Breva 750 gear change problem

Nearly have the little Breva the way I want it .I have a problem though changing from first to second gear in cold weather. It’s not that it won’t go into second. I’ve seen this mentioned in searces. It just will not come out of first no matter how much presure I try. If I stop the bike and let the revs go back to tick-over, it will change happily. Also, there is a T junction a mile and a half from my house where I have to stop.[ Law abiding biker that I am.] When I take off from there it behaves perfectly?I now leave it warming up while I put on my gear and that more or less solves the problem - still a bit stiff.I have adjusted most of the slack from the lever - about 2mm left.Anything else I could try?

There are several references to clutch adjustment on the forum. Check the lever at the back of the gearbox.It sounds as if your clutch is dragging slightly.

Thanks Brian. Helpfull as always.I did a search before posting and came across a post by Ian Dunmore, [Lil Breva expert here!], where he states that there is no adjustment at the gearbox end.If there is, can somebody explain how it’s done please? In simple terms if you could.

I felt mine was similar, and yes, adjusting the clutch did help.

I used to have the exactly the same problem with my Breva 750 - just got into the habit of selecting first and second a couple of times after having warmed the engine a little before moving off. No problems thereafter.
Sounds like your clutch adjustment is OK - if there is a problem with the clutch dragging it may be the cable - saw one at the weekend where the outer cable had completely corroded through and collapsed thereby losing a significant amount of travel and the clutch to drag.
The link below shows how to change the cable and on the second last photo you can just about see the “adjuster” on the lever (between the spring housing and the pivot pin) It looks like a factory set adjustment rather than a service adjustment which is carried out at the hand lever.

Just found this - 2 and 3 are the adjuster but probably best left alone.

eyebem2014-01-07 21:37:06

Look at the parts list here, and scroll down to the clutch lever diagram. The adjuster is clearly labelled. The other thing to check is that the pivot on that lever behind the gearbox - which gets all the crud from the back wheel thrown over it - is free to pivot and has not seized up.

So it is, virtually identical to the Tonti version.

Nice of you to say so but no I am not.Though on that I think I am right.Agree it still sounds like clutch adjustment.

there was a recall on early brevas due to sticking gears
I have the sheet someplace
the repair involves filing something or hitting something
mine used to do it but its got massive miles on now
however if the box is still tight and the engine cold the gear oil will be like thick treacle and will take a little time to warm up
dont fiddle about with that adjuster on the rose linkage too much or the mechanism will foul the back of the swing arm at certain positions
i have seen a build up of dirt causing problems, also on mine whenI removed the swing arm and gear linkage to replace the loose bolt, i injected the rose joints with an expensive german grease lithium based i think that improved gearchanging a massive amount
older BMW twins used to have a rubber gaiter over them for that reason
if you remove the linkage there is a small spring clip and this will not release the rose but will allow you to squirt air in and remove sediment then spray lubricant in
failing that give it to Ian to clock a fair few miles on it !!

Our '05 model had same problem but it had been filled with 85/140 oil. Problem went away with 80/90.

Guzzi it true italian style , changed th oil spec AFTER they printed all the books and manuals to 80/90 from 85/140 .

Thanks all.I’ve been poking around and checking adjustments and reading stuff on various forums.Not too much crud around the lever on the gearbox. cleaned it up and gave it a bit of a spray. Sorry ian, there is an adjuster there but not very accessable. Also, it seems not to need adjusting. According to what I’ve read, with the correct 4mm of slack at the clutch lever, the lever at the back of the gearbox should have a small gap before it makes contact. This all looks fine. Rapheal, forgive my ignorance, but what is this rose joint which you suggest I grease?A couple of people on another forum with similar cold gearchange problems, used 75W-90 Semi synthetic oil in their gearboxes instead of the usual 80W-90, and reported big improvements. Might try that at the next service.[Oh and Ian. I owe you! The last time I replaced my rear wheel, I used your idea of using double sided tape to hold the rubber thingys in place. Wheel just hopped into place!]

gear change problems can be clutch, but also due to the gear linkages the linkrod and the2 bellcranks on back of gearbox: - if the linkrods are badly adjusted or any of the bellcranks incorrectly placed on splines the ball joints sockets can bottom out on the ball pins preventing full movement - the nuts holding the ball pins onto the bellcranks work loose and you loose movement as the pins wobble about. Replace plain standard nuts with nylocs. - the nuts on the linkrod can come loose (be warned one is lefthand thread) there is a pedal shaft behind the footpeg casting, in line with lefthand footpeg. It gets damp and rusty and the shaft can seize in the tube, just needs freeing off and greasing. If it seizes then the pedal sticks, resulting in the spring in the gearbox not being strong enough to push pedal back to release the pawl from the ratchet motion in the gearbox. another possible problem can be pedal hitting exhaust as for clutch adjustments, I’ll repeat here for thoroughness:clutch adjustments - be warned there are 2 adjusters.One on the back of the hand lever that everybody knows about, but also one in the middle of the clutch arm on the back of the box. It is very important that the one on the arm is not permanently resting on the end of the clutch pushrod as it will toast the pushrod thrust bearing. Access to view is left side with your head under the footpegs. There is a 10mm locknut from memory. Correct adjustment method is :- 1st completely slacken off the adjuster on the hand lever- then adjust the arm so it does not quite touch the pushrod (I think there is a recommended clearance but I cannot remember offhand)- then adjust the hand lever Suggest you get some spray grease (chainlube!) and spray back of gearbox, especially in winter when it gets hit by salty road spray. It will help lubricate clutch arm pivot (can seize and snap off gearbox), lubricates the pushrod thrust bearing and also the gear linkages, also the gear pedal shaft in the tube in line with lefthand footpeg behind the casting.
Lawrence2014-01-10 00:02:53

Eyyyyup El’awrence welcome back Sir