Breva/Stelvio heated grips

Anyone know if Stelvio heated grips are same/or will fit Breva1100.
Lee C

Can’t comment on the fitment but I can confirm that the Stelvio heated grips are a great disapointment.
I had them fitted to my new NTX for 1st March (of course the switch & display are pre-fitted and it is just the grips that are required) and have had ample opportunity to use them in the early mornings on my way to work and found them to be almost useless. The OE heated grips on my old GS were far better but even they paled into insignificance by the heat given out by the grips on the Triumph Explorer I test rode back in January (almost too hot!).

Apparently it is not uncommon to use the existing wiring / controls and fit Oxford grips as they are much more effective and at about £40, far cheaper. Obviously there is the current draw to take into account but apparently this is not an issue as the Oxford units are similar to the OE units, just much more effective.

Certainly I will be looking at changing my grips before next winter.

Thanks for that will go that route and report back.
Lee C

I prefer the Symtec heated grips they go under the original grips, I can’t see why they can’t be inter grated into the controls!

Hi everyone,

I have just fitted Oxford Adventure heated grips to my Stelvio NTX. These retail at about £80 but I managed to pick mine up at the BSB final at Brands Hatch for £50.

I cut off the original grips to save time but it might be possible to work them off if you are prepared to put in a Herculean effort. The grips have to be cut to size (I used a sharp craft knife). Remember that the bar end weight adds about 4 mm to the bar length. If you measure to the end of the bar (as I did!) your grip will be short on the clutch side. The fitting instructions warn of dire consequences if you don’t use the supplied glue but I simply pushed the clutch side on. It is a very tight fit and is not going anywhere. One side done elapsed time about ten minutes! Surely this is too good to be true?

The throttle side is more difficult. MG have covered the throttle tube in all sorts of sticky out projections to ensure the grip cannot move relative to the throttle tube. No way is your new grip going over those so they have to be removed. More work with my trusty craft knife. I cut the throttle grip to exactly the same length as my (too short) clutch side grip but this turns out to be just right on the throttle side as the flare at the base of the throttle grip is molded into the throttle tube. Again, no way is your new grip going over it so you just have to butt the grip up to it. 4 mm short is just what the doctor ordered! Both grips on elapsed time 30 minutes. This can’t be right!

Now to find the factory connectors. Workshop manual assures me they are under the LH side panel. LH side panel off. Not as easy as it sounds as some of the bolts are tricky to get to. By the time it is off an hour has elapsed and I am running out of light. Absolutely no sign of those connectors.

I return another day with good daylight and a torch and spend about 30 minutes peering up under the tank. No joy. A bit of Google bashing quickly reveals that other owners have had the same problem. Many have had to remove the tank and one had to remove the ABS pump as well. I don’t fancy that. One owner reports that his were under the RH panel. Maybe mine are too? No. The bike now has both side panels off and cannot be ridden as the indicators are in those panels. Elapsed time now about 2 hours 30 including the internet searches.

Another day dawns. I gird my lions to remove the tank. Several owners have commented on line that removing the tank is simple. So simple they don’t bother saying how to do it! Here is how.

  1. Remove the air control winglets and side panels (I am ahead of the game here!)
  2. Take off the seat and remove the plastic cover to the rear of the tank (four bolts)
  3. Disconnect the three fuel pipes and the electrical connector to the fuel pump. The pipes to the right and left simple pull off of brass union connectors. The central pipe is a bit more tricky. I levered the outer black clip up and the rotated and pulled on the pipe until it came free. Not sure if this is the correct technique but nothing broke in the process. Stop press! Just found the correct technique online "The connector in the lower center, is the pressurized fuel line that so many people seem to break. DON’T PANIC. If you do exactly as I tell you, it will come off so easily and will not even get close to breaking. There is no need to relieve the pressure in the line. It’s not that much. The secret of how to remove this connector is so simple. With your right hand, press the connector gently in towards the tank, while at the same time with your left hand, press the black locking collar also towards the tank. You are pressing them both towards the tank. Now, while holding the black locking collar down, gently reverse your force on the fuel connector and remove it from the tank. If your line is pressurized, it will burp a small quantity of gas, so please, don’t be smoking or have an ignition source anywhere nearby and also don’t have your face right down there unless you enjoy gas in the eye! " Guess I was lucky not to break it!
  4. Remove the five tank retaining bolts. Two at the back, two at the front (the top of the winglets were screwed into them) and one central bolt visible when you look down between the front of the tank and the handlebars.
  5. Pull the tank back and up to remove it from the bike. This is easiest if the tank is nearly empty. Mine was brim full!

There they are! right next to the ABS pump but fortunately, in my case, not trapped underneath it. Two problems are immediately apparent; the cables on the Oxford grips are too short to reach the factory connectors and the cables have different connectors to those fitted by the factory. Ho hum! A root around in my electrical bits box turns up suitable connectors to mate with the factory connectors and, of course, the complimentary connectors for the Oxford grips are attached to the Oxford control unit. I use these to make up extension cables and I am in business! A few minutes work with cable ties gets everything tidied up (remember to leave a loop on the throttle side to allow the throttle to turn).

I can’t believe it! I am ready to put everything back together. Assembly, as they say is the reverse of dis-assembly. Make sure your new cables don’t interfere with the steering lock (mine did initially) and you are done.

On with my leathers and out for a test ride. They work very well, Second heat setting is plenty for a mild March day. RH grip gets hotter of course. It makes you wonder why Oxford don’t just supply two throttle side grips and a tube to bring the LH bar out to the correct diameter insulating the grip from the bars at the same time.

I have taken some pictures and will post them soon. Good luck!


Wow! Thanks for the write-up, Richard.

I agree that the heat from the Stelvio grips is a disappointment but I like the way they are switched and the indicator on the dash so I will probably do the same as you. I hadn’t realised what a chore it will be, though!

I will be interested in seeing your pictures.


As an aside I run the Symtec heated elements myself on three of my bikes - highly recommended.

Good heat and you retain your own grips. You do need to watch heat sinking if you have aluminium bars though. I have old school Oxfords on my V50 and the grips are very hard. Not a problem in winter gloves, but not great come summer.

Hi Jon,

As with many things, most of the chore is due to not knowing quite what you are doing as you work through. If you allocate a decent amount of time and assume you will have to remove the tank you will get it done in one session. The tank removal really is easy as all connectors are right in front of you once you move the rear decorative cover.

If my memory is correct, the matching connectors for the factory connectors came from some old heat demon grips so, if you used those rather than Oxford grips, the need for adapters would be obviated. I don’t know the name/sizing of the fitted connectors - maybe someone out there can enlighten us?

Definitely worth doing. Last few days have been pretty mild but I have still appreciated my new heated grips. Fact that they are integrated into the factory electronics and switch gear is definitely a big plus. Will get the photos on soon - they are just snaps not a professional quality job!



Check out the later sections of this blog from a true meister.
Richard x


Here are the pics.

My extension/adaptor cables

Connectors finally located.

Extension cables in place.

LH grip - notice that 4 mm gap!

RH grip - notice the flange on the throttle tube.

Dash indicators illuminate and they are getting hot. Notice how much fuel I had in the bloody tank!

Good luck,